Kyoto Maiko

$8 shirts! $8 shirts!

2012-01-29T00:37:00.005-06:00

Oh, American Living, how I adore you. Both FEC of Unabashedly Prep and I have spoken highly of this brand, and it just keeps getting better. RIGHT NOW, depending on your size, you can get high quality Ralph Lauren shirts (of the same quality, in my opinion, as the Polo line) for $8, $18, or $30. While I typically choose only to pick up dress shirts, there are also the same types of things you would find in the Polo line including khakis, cords, rugbies, fair isle sweaters, repp ties, and a vast array of polo shirts. For the dress shirts, some come with pockets, some come with logos, a few come without pockets or logos (my preference, but very hard to find). Why pay $75 for a Polo Ralph Lauren shirt when you get get an $8 American Living shirt made from the same material, at the same quality, likely in the same factory? Nope, I didn't think you had a reason either. Better yet? The madras is made in India, but unfortunately, while you won't find China, you'll still find places like Indonesia, but then you get that with the Polo line as well.

Another photo taken with my iPhone, just to see if I could do it better. This one was done with the flash on and with HDR enabled. American Living's Boys XL 18-20 fits me perfectly, and it's great to know I can just grab a few shirts and go. I chose a warm flannel in yellows, greens, and blues, and a light madras in red, white, and blue. There also appeared to be a blue Pierce check, which I bypassed because I have a blue Pierce check in Vineyard Vines. I was eyeing the red and green Pierce checks, and should they still be there next week, I will snap them up at the higher $18 asking price. There were also some decent red base and green base stripes that I'll consider as the least of the bunch should I have some extra cash. Finally there were red, blue, and orange ginghams for $30 in men's small. They're a bit roomy compared to the Boys XL 18-20, and thus not my first choice, but I loved the ginghams. Still, $30 is a lot to pay when I'm getting used to $8 or $18 shirts that fit perfectly. I really wanted this great soft blue and green tattersall I found in 14-16, but alas, no 18-20, so I was denied. A shame, because, you guessed it, it was $8. I just hope they eventually release the ginghams in 18-20.

If you're on the smaller side, either as a male or a female, I urge you to make your way to your nearest JCPenney and pick up some of these awesome shirts for pennies on the dollar, and if you take care of them, they will last you just as long as any dress shirt you may have with one of the little horsies on it. The Eagle and Flag is the new improved Polo Player. I'm a believer.

Fair Winds and Following Seas.

iSport

2012-01-25T00:08:00.004-06:00

I've never been much for the iPhone camera, and I have the 4, which I suppose I've heard is pretty decent. Almost all of my photos are taken with a Canon. Do you think this iPhone photo came out well enough?

Shirt by GANT Rugger, tie by The President, rugby by Polo Ralph Lauren.

Fair winds and following seas.

I Wear Minus The I #2 - Longing for Spring

2012-01-22T13:32:00.006-06:00

Corduroy Blazer: American Eagle Outfitters $14
Pierce Check Button Down Shirt: Vineyard Vines $24
Seersucker Repp Tie: Tommy Hilfiger $5
Madras D-Ring Belt: Comme Ca Ism $5
Dark Denim Jeans: Banana Republic, at least ten years old, price long forgotten.
Motif Socks: Polo Ralph Lauren, Christmas present
Penny Loafers: Bass Weejuns "Logan" $99

Fair winds and following seas.

Kyoto Animation (KyoAni)

2012-01-22T09:21:00.003-06:00

One of the things I love most about Japan is being able to track down places that appear in animation, movies, or television shows. Especially if I had seen them before I moved to Japan. It's always a very surreal experience to come across a building or park which you instantly recognise, but have never actually seen before. At least not in person.

While many movies/shows take place in Tokyo, not all of them do. The studio responsible for shows like Air, Suzumiya Haruhi no Yuuutsu, Lucky Star, and K-ON is Kyoto Animation, and as you might have guessed, is located not too far out of my way in Kyoto. In Japan, it is common for students (including my own) to take school trips for a weekend or a few days to another major city in Japan. My own students typically go to Tokyo or Okinawa, but the girls from Lucky Star live in Tokyo, so they headed down to Kyoto.

Konata (the girl with the blue hair) is a huge Japanese animation fan, and as such the series is very meta. Making jokes about animation in animation. True to this theme, the first place Konata wants to go? Not to Gion with its geisha and maiko. Not to any of the amazing hundreds of years old temples. Nah, she goes straight to her favorite animation studio. I too visited the studio taking pictures in roughly the same places as the girls.

Fair winds and following seas.

Polo? Tennis? A Shirt For Both and More.

2012-01-20T00:04:00.011-06:00

Current and vintage polos from Lacoste, Vineyard Vines, and Polo Ralph Lauren.
Mesh or interlock. Short sleeve or long, but usually short. Lacoste or Polo by Ralph Lauren, Fred Perry or Boast, or many others. It is a staple of the prep wardrobe. T-shirts? Sure we have those. Sometimes we even wear them. Normally, though, this shirt, designed by René Lacoste, the French 7-time Grand Slam tennis champion, is a go-to part for the oxymoronic styles of being casually put-together or nonchalantly go-to-hell.

Ironically, it has come to be known as the polo shirt in a very roundabout fashion. Even though it was somewhat related to shirts of a similar design used by various players of polo in the 1800s, there is no direct convergence between Lacoste's shirt and polo until much later. In 1856, John Brooks of Brooks Brothers brought over a design for a very different polo shirt. He had witnessed a polo match where players had worn what we now call Oxford Cloth Button Downs, which had been developed to keep shirt collars from flying up into polo players' faces. It was an instant hit, and it remains one for the prep set- just not for polo.

In 1920, Canadian-Argentinian polo payer Lewis L. Lacey produced a shirt that was almost the shirt we recognise today. It even had a polo player on the breast. In the 1923 season these shirts worn by the Hurlingham Polo Team were created and sold by Lacey to others. Similarly, Lacoste and other tennis players were typically used to playing in long-sleeved white button-up shirts (worn with the sleeves rolled up), flannel trousers, and ties. As you might imagine, Lacoste was not a fan of this and instead designed a shirt with an unstarched, flat, protruding collar, a buttoned placket, and a longer shirt-tail in back than in front (which sadly, Lacoste no longer has on their modern design). This design was adopted by a number of sports, leading to a version which would become the modern rugby shirt, and of course, by the 1950s, was adopted by polo players. At this point even tennis players called the shirt a polo shirt.

Fred Perry, famous English-American tennis player launched his own line (after perfecting the sweatband!) of tennis shirts. It is still a choice among some members of the prep set who consider Lacoste to be too showy or Ralph Lauren to be too inauthentic. Like another prep institution, J.PRESS, Fred Perry is now owned by a Japanese conglomerate. However, it was from the shirt's association with the game of polo, well after Lacey's version had already been used on and off, and Ralph Lauren launched his "Polo" line featuring a design very close to (and some say stolen directly from) Lacoste, that the shirt really became popular. Part of Lauren's 1972 line, it was an instant hit and has changed the fashion landscape forever. In 1973, Boast introduced their own version. Many say that Lauren's offerings are, regardless of heritage or legacy, the only design that "keeps it real." However, with the resurrection of Boast and new labels like Band of Outsiders, perhaps his dominance will be challenged in the future...

Polo by Polo Ralph lauren, slacks by Uniqlo, ribbon belt by Uniqlo, watch by Brooks Brothers, NATO strap by American Eagle Outfitters, shoes by Sperry Top-siders.

Fair winds and following seas.

Social Media Platforms: The Kyoto Maiko Rundown

2012-01-19T01:26:00.004-06:00

Before I go any further I have two big announcements to make.

First I want to thank everyone who suffered through my 24 hour SOPA/PIPA post. Political posts are not, and never will be, a feature of this blog, but the language of those laws was terrible. Everyone across the political spectrum was against these bills, and the chilling effects it would have on bloggers needed to be shared. Thank you for your understanding. Such posts will occur only in the direst of circumstances.

Second, Sarah Vickers of Kiel James Patrick has just launched her own prep style blog Classy Girls Wear Pearls, which can be found on my blogroll. Please enjoy.

If there is one thing that I think brings my two "commenter groups" together in a single thread, it is my behavior posts on blogging. Maybe it's a bit meta to blog on blogging, but aside from a few Anonymouses (Anonymi? Anonymeese?), and non-blogger users like Bitsy, most of us are, ourselves, bloggers. And by virtue of this fact, our blogs interact in a wider blog community. We don't just have conversations on our own blogs, we have them across blogs, and across the internet. For that reason, I felt it would be important to go over how Kyoto Maiko (and I personally) uses the various social media platforms.

Blogger - Clearly this consists of my main blog. A combination of categories with outfit posts of myself and others, historical photos, travel photos, and of course, behavior/blog posts like this. Sometimes photos only, but usually very word heavy. This is the center of my blogging universe, and increasingly the center of my social media universe.

Tumblr - Posts on the blog are carefully crafted. Only the best photos of large sets are selected. Tumblr I see as a repository of all, or most, of the images I take. Showing my readers the raw material of how my image posts are constructed. I will sometimes post or reblog the content of others. But this is a rarity. The vast majority of content will be my own. The subtitle of my tumblr is "Often Original Content" and I mean it. I think using tumblr just to post photos you like is fine too, but it isn't for me.

Twitter - I love twitter. I use it mostly to connect to people I normally would never have the chance to. Yesterday I traded a few sentences about Reality TV with Lisa Birnbach of the The Original Preppy Handbook. Very mundane, but to think that it makes such mundane conversations seem possible with anyone you might wish to talk to is amazing. I also use it to post my own links to tell people when I have updates, and to follow the links of bloggers I don't normally follow or visit every day via blogger but might still care to read if a title jumps out at me. V of Grit & Glamour has spoken about this, and it is precisely how I decide when to jump in on her blog. If her tweet seems interesting to me- I go for it. However, @Kionon is my personal twitter, and sometimes that means political or religious comments that I would never allow on the blog itself. Ask the readers time, do you believe Kyoto Maiko needs its own twitter account to keep these separate?

Facebook - No. This is entirely a personal space for me. Not related to my blog. I have worked in politics, and this is how I keep track of friends, coworkers, and fraternity brothers. This is where I am extremely politically active, and have many heated debates about spirituality, religion, and politics. I would like to keep this entirely closed off from my blog, and I am worried that even a fan page might start to generate too much crossover.

Google+ - Use it pretty much like twitter at the moment, but don't use it nearly as much. I think it's really powerful, but I am not yet sure how to harness that power. Big problem is that some of my friends and fraternity brothers do not have Facebook, but do have Google+ and this means that even while I post blog content, I can get into heated debate with individuals. Twitter's format prevents this because of the character limit. Google+ does not. Unsure how to proceed.

Other services - I think at this point, much as V tweeted not too long ago, any other services would be too many to handle. Several people have asked me if I have an Instagram. I don't, and I probably don't want one.

So dear readers, how do you think Kyoto Maiko should be using social media, and how do you as bloggers or blog readers use social media? I am curious to know.

Fair winds and following seas.

Ivy League Style

2012-01-17T18:06:00.002-06:00

For CC at Ivy Style.

Photographed at the Hankyuu Mens Store, Umeda, Osaka, Japan

The One That Got Away

2012-01-17T04:12:00.003-06:00

When I left for Korea, I still owned a 323i Sport Sedan. I loved that car. Still do. I kept it for the six months I was in Korea, but when I moved to Japan, I figured it would be too difficult to maintain from 7000 miles away, and shipping it to Japan and keeping it within regulations (called shaken) was too cumbersome and too expensive. So, with a heavy heart, I said goodbye.

I have resolved one day to buy one just like it, when I'm not so flighty, and my career post-MA is settled. The PE teacher I work with in Fukuchiyama owns my car's twin, in silver. I was the only coworker allowed to drive it around town. That made the the sting hurt a little bit less...

Loss of a BMW... #preppyproblems

Content of Character

2012-01-16T15:56:00.002-06:00

Martin Luther King Jr. and Baynard Rustin, Source Unknown.

This Jacket is a Political Statement

2012-01-14T22:45:00.008-06:00

Came upon this outstanding vintage blazer...

I think the buttons are plastic, but still nice. I'd like to see them replaced.

100% camel hair. The real deal.

Made for Neiman-Marcus.

There's one of the only political statements I will make on this blog. Right there.

Oooh, nifty...

Over blocks.

Mitt fits nicely with Muffy, Biff, Bitsy, and Trip

2012-01-13T22:54:00.006-06:00

Mitt Romney was very shoe in 1966. No political arguments, please. Let's stick to Mitt's impeccable style.

Images courtesy of the Associated Press.
UPDATE: My friend Christopher Casey just tracked down this...

Flashing money, Mitt? Unprep, sir. Most unprep.

Keep calm...

2012-01-13T01:52:00.004-06:00

I made this. Standard fair use, with credit, allowed.
I have recently reread my August 7th post on my attempts to organise, brand, and diversify Kyoto Maiko. I wanted to try to take stock of where I am in terms of building not traffic, but community. I have to say, I am a bit disappointed with myself for failing to recognise that if I was to engender discussion not just between myself and individual commenters, but also between commenters themselves, I would have to seriously reconsider my decision to blog in short yet prolific surges.

These surges are valuable, no doubt about it. They build traffic, they build readership, and frankly, they produce not only some of my best content, but also successfully add to the look and the feel of the blog itself. I hope that the blog is easy to navigate, clear to read, and fits with the themes I previously established for the blog. I also have taken care of the domain name, and I'm sure that will make it significantly easier for individuals to find, read, and engage with it. These would only be possible because of the surges.

That being understood, these surges come too far and too few in between. Many of my most common commenters require reminders I still exist once a new surge has begun. This is usually because my writing surges coincide with my reading surges. Thus, I am significantly more likely to blog when I comment, and comment when I blog. This means that such reminders occur when I myself have decided to comment on a blog. I have never wanted to be a professional blogger, and I have never felt that I could or wanted to blog every day. In fact, I am still sure I don't and I can't and I don't. However, the lack of posting consistency is, I think, a significant reason why a discourse between readers hasn't happened.

It's not the only reason. I think my readership still hasn't settled yet. I appreciate every single comment I receive, as do, I am sure, the bloggers who receive comments from me. However, I think it is fair to say that my intended audience is clearly in the general vicinity of Trad/Ivy/Prep, with some outliers probably interested primarily in my Japan pictures. This intended course didn't really exist when the blog switched to personal style based on recommendations from Facebook friends two years ago. It certainly didn't exist when the blog was originally founded in June of 2008.

Initially, I didn't know what I was doing at all. About all I knew of style blogs or fashion blogs were The Sartorialist and HEL Looks, and I enjoyed both of them. This is why when I learned about Independent Fashion Bloggers, I figured it was a tool to figure out just what the hell a style blogger was supposed to be. And I made a lot of mistakes dealing with content or subjects that had very little to do with my daily life or daily style choices. In the end, while I have connected to hundreds of blogs, some of which I definitely keep in a personal rotation, I can say with relative certainty that there is not a single blog I have discovered through Independent Fashion Bloggers that I feel is tied enough to my core themes to include on my blogroll. Which is not, as has been explained earlier, to suggest that blogs discovered through IFB "aren't good enough." They're just not the right fit for the focus.

This is not to say IFB has not been valuable, but if it has been, it has been for the small connections which have been made, and not the larger ones. Looking over the traffic flow over the past two years, I think my selected posts for Links a la Mode garnered just as many comments, that is to say, just as much discourse, as any of my posts during the middle of my surges. The vast majority of the traffic provided by Links a la Mode selections produced no comments, no discussion, no community. Google analytics tells me so.

Is it because of my own inconsistency in applying for it week after week? I don't think so. When I look to my "IFB" commenters, such as Terri of Rags Against the Machine, V of Grit and Glamour, or Alexis Grace of North On Harper, what I see isn't a relationship built on increasing exposure, even if it may have started that way. Instead I see personal relationships built over months of commenting back and forth. Most of the comments I have received via links in the Link a la Mode threads are what Terri calls "hit and run" bloggers. Even if I take my time to pay back their "kindness" with a comment on their blogs, rarely is this profitable. And why should it be? They do not have any true interest in my themes. V has explained her views on why she sometimes comments… and often does not (recognising that our themes do not coincide while still noticing that, from time to time, we may find interest in various posts), but I would love to hear from Terri or Alexis Grace or Serene or Lisa why they stick around. Not that I want to see them go, mind you!

There is one more group of commenters, a small, yet growing group that is precisely the readership I think I made some decision to seek in August of 2010. These are the traditionalists, the ivies, and the prepsters. Among them are the always elegant Muffy Aldrich, the "frankly my dear, I don't give a damn" Scott Alexander, myth buster extraordinaire Yankee-Whisky-Papa, and ultimate Tretorn fan John. Not a single one of them was to be found via aggregation sites, or a huge list of links, or giveaways. I found them through one another and through others that have a passion for a specific type of style and certain values when it comes to making decisions about clothing, among other things. These are the people I want to have a beer at the club with. These are the people I want to go out sailing with. These are the people who see the value in having a beer at the club and in going out and sailing!

While consistency in posting is necessary to keep the discourse open and bring in new readers that will identify with the values and themes espoused in your content, I think it is the personal relationships which keep people coming back. If you value hits, then you probably do not care much at all about whether or not your commenters are one-hit-wonders, as long as there is a constantly replenishing supply of them. However, if you care about readers as individuals, and you are about fomenting discussion about the very topics you wish you could discuss in real life with the individuals who become your readers, well then spending time building personal relationships is key.

And with that I think I am going to spend considerably less time on "10 new ways to build your blog" or "The new it device you have to own to harblegarblemobilebloggingBUZZWORDS" and considerably MORE time on sharing stories with the readers I already have and encouraging them to speak to each other- not just with me.

As always, fair winds and following seas.

Wind Chill Factor

2012-01-12T15:26:00.006-06:00

It is 40 degrees outside, and yet so bright and sunny. Does not compute. It'd be fine if it wasn't for the gusts that make it seem like it should be snowing. I'm also wearing my Polham jeans that I picked up in Seoul when I lived there. Jeans are an usual choice for me to make. I typically stick to khakis, but my khakis were all in the hamper, so... And yeah, that's a polo shirt under an oxford cloth button down. It's a lost art. I'm trying to break in my new LL Bean camp mocs as I run around town doing errands...

Blazer by Angelique, OCBD by Lands' End, polo by Polo Ralph Lauren, vintage belt, jeans by Polham, socks by Uniqlo, LL Bean camp mocs, watch and NATO strap by Brooks Brothers.

LL Bean Camp Mocs

2012-01-11T20:43:00.005-06:00

My significantly delayed Christmas present finally arrived from Freeport, Maine today. On the whole, I'm not quite sure how I like them. When I first slipped them on, they slipped right off. They're the right size length wise, but I think I really could use a narrow, and LL Bean no longer offers them in a narrow. After fiddling with the laces for quite some time, I was able to cinch in the sides so that they fit snugly with or without socks, but do not cut off my circulation or pinch my feet. We'll see how they break in.

I actually wanted the dark brown, but the cactus looks much better in real life than it ever did on the screen. I'm not sure whether or not I like the way the cactus leather has been finished. The pair arrives with marks all over the place, and while I suppose that is part of the charm of a well worn pair of camp mocs, I would at least prefer my marks and discolorations to be my own and come from my own activities. That said, there is certainly nothing to complain of in the feel of the leather, which I quite like. It's soft and supple.

What I absolutely do not like, not at all, are the black laces (they may appear chocolate brown in these pictures, but let me assure you, they are pitch black). I think it is a horrible color to go with a brown, whether cactus or not, and I am resolved to replace them with brown/yellow Kiwi laces made in the USA as soon as it is feasible to do so. I will, then, of course, need to readjust them.

I'll keep you updated on how they work out...

HMS Endeavour Reconstruction...Sydney, Australia

2012-01-09T12:36:00.007-06:00

HMS Endeavour in Oil. Courtesy of ModelShipmaster.com
HMS Endeavour, also known as HM Bark Endeavour, was a British Royal Navy research vessel commanded by Lieutenant James Cook on his first voyage of discovery, to Australia and New Zealand from 1769 to 1771. In 1994, the reconstruction was built in Darling Harbour, Sydney, Australia. It is attached to the Australian National Maritime Museum which I visited last year.

It was a rather gloomy day, hot and humid, but the weather forecast said it was supposed to clear up. I bought a ticket and headed on deck...

There was a designated direction to go onboard Endeavour, so I immediately headed below...

Where I was met a-mid-ships and listened to a story I was all too familiar with. "This is where the midshipmen would have slept, because they were a-mid-ships men." Given that I myself had once been a midshipman, I asked how many midshipmen had been aboard, but the guide in that section didn't know. He sent me on aft to the Great Cabin to speak to one of the riggers that had not only helped build the reconstruction, but sailed it when it left Sydney on its 'round-the-world tours.

Once in the Great Cabin, where the Captain had his quarters, and where the officers and dignitaries would have dined with Captain Cook, the rigger pointed out the details of the room, and proceeded to answer my question. There had been four midshipmen on Endeavour. They all had illustrious careers, and the least among them made Post-Captain. One of the bunch even made it to the Admiralty. Serving under Captain Cook was quite an auspicious start for those young men, even if they didn't know it at the time.

If you look closely at the center of the image, under the "8" and under the rope running about knee high around the Great Cabin, you will see what appears to be a round hole. That hole has inside of it a piece of wood from, I believe, a plank of the original HMS Endeavour, and was carried by its namesake, the Shuttle Endeavor, in its first flight into space. The exact location of the majority of the wreck of HMS Endeavour is unknown. It was sunk near Newport, Rhode Island during a blockade of the fledgling United States of America during the Revolutionary War in 1778. The third lieutenant in Captain Cook's original crew had been an American, tying the ship to England, Australia, New Zealand, and the United States of America.

You can see the Sydney skyline, complete with Sydney Tower, out the windows of the Great Cabin.

When I popped back up on deck, the sky had cleared, and I snapped this awesome picture of the Royal Navy flag flying in the breeze.

Next time in the travel and history sections, the mighty metal warships of the Royal Australian Navy and a selection of photos from the Australian National Maritime Museum's Naval section and the Royal Australian Naval Heritage Centre.

Scenes from my father's closet

2012-01-05T20:18:00.002-06:00

Everyone in my family wears LL Bean, and has for years. Here are my father's most recent acquisitions:

Tattersall button down shirt.

Norwegian sweater in Mountain Red/Navy.

He, of course, has a lot more, but none of it is in order, and I'd have to go digging, which I have neither the time nor the inclination to do. Not that he'd care.

Cockatoo Island, Sydney, Australia

2012-01-04T01:10:00.005-06:00

I still have a number of travel pictures from Australia to post. I also have a number of pictures of various naval vessels from Japan and Australia to post. I'll eventually get around to both... It doesn't fit into prep style, but it does fit into prep living.

The Perfect Campus Accessory

2012-01-02T16:36:00.002-06:00

Collection of Curiosities

2012-01-01T15:37:00.006-06:00

A collection of curiosities, new and old, common and unique are an essential part of turning a general space into a personal space.

A very random collection of curiosities. Yes, that item in the upper right hand corner is exactly what you think it is.

I'm a member of the United States Naval Institute. If you value free and open discourse about the state of American seapower, I urge you to join.

I hold few framed physical photographs. These two photographs, one of my time as a midshipman and one of my students and myself taken last December, are among my favorites.

My Great Grandfather's ring (circa 1910), my Grandfather's ring, and my own UT ring. While Granddaddy's ring is far too big for me, I have the exact same ring size as Great Granddaddy. I rarely wear it given its age. I also inherited my Great Grandaddy's Knight of Columbus cufflinks, but the rosary on the Infant of Prague (as well as the pin I wear) were mine at my own Exemplification of Knighthood. I am a Third Degree. And that's as far into religion as I will ever go on a style and living blog.

Completely unabashed about my love of certain Japanese animation shows (to the point, early mentioned, of being considered the foremost expert of Kimagure Orange Road in the world outside of the creator), I have here a bookmark of Hongo Yui from Fushigi Yuugi, a figurine of Kagami from Lucky Star dressed as Hatsune Miku from Vocaloid, and a figure and drawing of Tenjou Utena from my third favorite animation show, Revolutionary Girl Utena. Not shown is my own copy of the Utena rose crest ring, which is prominent among the student council of her prep school in the series.

THE IFB WEEKLY ROUNDUP: LINKS À LA MODE: DECEMBER 28TH

2011-12-30T10:50:00.004-06:00

Honestly, I have about three months of back Links a la Mode to post. The last week I posted Links a la Mode was October 7th. Starting with the most recent and going backwards, I am going to try to get all of the Links a la Mode posts I missed. I probably won't give them individual posts. They'll likely end up in one massive "catch up" post. Until then, here are the links for December 28th.

HOLIDAY LEFTOVERS

Edited by Taylor Davies

I think you better just conk me upside the head with a Christmas tree, this holiday season has done a doozie on me! I’ve gone into total vacation mode, away from New York City, away from the office and deep into the mountains of Idaho. As far away as I am physically, I can’t escape our blogging community! (Not that I would want to, mind you.) I’m constantly reading, checking in, and scanning twitter to make sure I don’t miss anything good. I’m so impressed with all of our community members who are balancing their family holiday time with keeping their blogs up to date and sharing their posts on the Links a la Mode board. Here’s a sampling of the festive, fun and creative posts from this week.

THE IFB WEEKLY ROUNDUP: LINKS À LA MODE: DECEMBER 28TH

★ Bespoke Baroque: Celebrating
★ Coming Unstitched: Light Packing: A Mix & Match Extraveganza
★ Crisis In Denim: Are You A Saver Or A Wearer?
★ Little Miss Make Up: All That Glitters…
★ Mrs. Woffy’s Place: Spats Are Back
★ Nadalyn Margaret: Abroad Gift Guide
★ Pippa Holiday: Messy Bow
★ Style. Love. Repeat.: Events: Real Simple x L’Oreal Pop-Up Shop
★ Synthetic Elegance: 10 Things I Learned About Shopping The Hard Way
★ WoodstockWardrobe: Retro Round-Up

Brooks and Brooks and Ralph

2011-12-29T23:04:00.003-06:00

Brooks Brothers watch, NATO strap, cream/tan herringbone flannel, and Polo Ralph Lauren linen tie (made in the USA).

Happy Birthday, Kiel James Patrick

2011-12-28T18:37:00.002-06:00

I want to wish Kiel James Patrick of Azimuth Circle/Vickers & Patrick a very happy birthday. Or as we say in Japan, tanjyoubi omedetou! 誕生日おめでとう!

The Problems with "Prep" Blogs

2011-12-28T12:15:00.005-06:00

This might be close to biting the hand that feeds me in terms of readership, but I have very significant issues with "prep" blogs.

"But, Kio," you say, "is not YOUR blog a 'prep' blog?" Yes... and no. My style is 'prep,' my schooling until high school was 'prep,' and my choice of athletics is pretty 'prep,' (Tennis, Sailing), my family history is extremely 'prep,' but I defy the category in other ways. I'm of one of the branches of the family that lives in Texas and New Mexico- not on the East Coast. My private schools were not boarding schools. I didn't go to an Ivy League school. I've had a variety of summer and holiday jobs, from movie theaters to retail to private tutor. I've traveled extensively, but in Asia, not Europe. And finally, my career and life is as a public school teacher in the Kyoto area of Japan, and I love what I do. I'm a total geek about Kimagure Orange Road, 1980s Japanese pop idols, and really good taiyaki. Japan is my home, and that ultimately sets me apart from every other blog that has, as part of its foundations, prep style and prep living. This blog documents how I am, and readers may either take it or not. It is what Muffy Aldrich refers to as authenticity.

The blogs in my blog roll do it right. They document life as it happens. While there are poses and outfits, they are outfits actually worn. Activities are not staged, unless otherwise explained as an intentional photoshoot. Experiences are narrated as close as possible to the way they occurred. Some are more heavily fashion based, some are more heavily experience based. Unabashedly Prep sets the standard in a sleek, almost magazine feeling overview of prep style, but still one that is believable. If the United States had a Free & Easy I imagine it would look like FEC's offerings.

As much as I love the work of FEC, The Daily Prep is probably the best "prep" blog currently regularly updated because what Muffy does right that so few even bother to attempt is to merely document life as it happens, sprinkled with detailed and astute observations about the fashion industry and the labels associated with prep, and a fair bit of history, family, national, or local mixed in. When I first started reading The Daily Prep, it was for the detailed analyses of brands like LL Bean, Brooks Brothers, and Ralph Lauren. When I was in high school, I intentionally drifted away from prep style and when I went digging through my closet and the attic in college when I rediscovered it, I noticed that what was available today was not nearly as good as items that had been purchased for me when I was younger. I am lucky that my size has not changed much in at least 15 years. There are a number of pieces that survive from that period now once again in regular rotation, and I looked to Muffy to help me navigate what brands and labels were most likely to survive as long as my childhood pieces had. Yet, I stayed as close to a daily reader as I could because I was taken in particularly by Muffy's interesting forays into coastal New England living, as well as her penchant for sailing and very tasty pie.

Recently, an anonymous comment was made on Muffy's blog about the extent to which a number of "prep" blogs are anything but, and I responded that I often found many blogs with claims to prepdom to be, well, quite honestly unreadable. Muffy has also fielded questions about the nature of authenticity, especially in that some people believe blogging is in and of itself a violation of prep aesthetic. I don't believe this is the case, however I do find certain tropes present in prep blogs to be over the top, and I felt the need to single out the worst of the worst offenses:

1) Pink and Green - A prep staple, the prep blogosphere is seriously abusing the privilege of placing these two colors together. It is one thing to have pink and green as accents. Even I do, in an understated way. However, there is a trend in "This Preppy Blog" which has green text on a pink background or a pink text on a green background. This is unreadable. I don't mean the writing is bad, I mean I literally cannot look at it without hurting my eyes after a few minutes. There is nothing wrong with an interesting choice of background, but if it is so overpowering as to make the site painful to view, then it will not lead to my patronage.

2) Monograms - Preps love monograms. We do. Absolutely no denying that we do, but as Lisa Birnbach once said, the more obscure the monogram, the more prep it is. Think monogram on the right elbow or left side of the stomach on your oxford cloth button down. No one will see it. Too many prep blogs are exploding with monograms. Featuring your newly monogrammed item? Sure. Having monograms running up and down the sides of your blog, as part of your title, and the way you sign off each and every post? Possibly a bit ostentatious. Pick one. Maybe.

3) Politics - This is especially troublesome when I see pink and green versions of political symbols. I have places to discuss politics, this blog isn't it. I won't frequent (although I may visit from time to time) any prep blog which goes overboard on political speech. Some of the worst offenders actually veer away from uncouth into the bigoted. I never visit those blogs once I discover them. Freedom of speech is a beautiful thing, and it is most important for the protection of speech we hate, but politics and religion are often not discussed in mixed company. There are exceptions, but they are few and far between.

4) Faux-Prep - While I have argued in a previous behavior post that anyone can own prep, there are values to consider, and those values are related to quality, longevity, service, as well as style. There has been a number of blogs that have come and gone based on the author's preoccupation with style over substance. This includes a significant amount of products by brands that either were never prep (American Eagle Outfitters, Aeropostle) or those that have fallen too far (Abercrombie & Fitch/Hollister, Eddie Bauer, Talbots) or items that that have the look and feel of prep, without the quality or longevity (J.CREW comes to mind). "But, Kio," you protest again, "You have items from American Eagle and J.CREW." I have three nato straps and a belt. All were heavily discounted. You get what you pay for at times, and I was only willing to pay the few dollars required for those items. I would never have purchased them at full price, or even half price. I also do not expect them to last.

5) Original Content - Or, rather, the lack thereof. This is one of the reasons I am glad tumblr came along. Many blogs either started out as or turned into basically just digital inspiration boards, but lacked either original pictures or original articles or both. This is especially true of prep blogs where many people simply posted stock photos of items they deemed preppy. If you're going to do a post on the polo shirt or the boat shoe, that's great, but given how much has already been written, it is very important to have something new or unique to say. It seems that new bloggers aren't really logging anymore (that is to say, actually writing down thoughts and experiences), and as such just reposting pictures they see. That is a fine use of a tumblr, but not suitable for a blog that takes comments and foments discourse.

6) Titles - This one may land me in some hot water, especially since both FEC and Muffy use "Prep" in their titles, but I think we are now thoroughly saturated with "prep" this or "preppy" that being included in the title. I would ask that those thinking of blogging with a focus on prep style be a little more creative in the future. I have found our colleagues in the Ivy and Trad circles to have excellent taste in simple, to the point, yet refined blog titles. Heavy Tweed Jacket, as an example, is amusing and relevant. There are plenty of prep staples to be considered. I may have put more emphasis on my Japanese focus with Kyoto Maiko, but it certainly sets me apart.

When it comes to running any blog that you want to see be read and that you wish to continue updating, it is important to make it a reflection of yourself in a way that is natural and, there's that word again, authentic. Don't try to be your focus, because your focus should already be on what you are. That is very, very prep.

Bestest Pocket Squares

2011-12-27T16:05:00.002-06:00

Kimagure Orange Road Pocket Squares are Bestest Pocket Squares.

That is all.

7-5-3...Kawasaki Daishi, Japan

2011-12-27T03:45:00.008-06:00

Invested in Wintering

2011-12-27T00:14:00.004-06:00

Taylor. Photographed in Plano, TX
Notable: Rectangle tortoise shell frames, Vineyard Vines fleece zip up vest, oxford cloth, collegiate striped blouse with white center and gold buttons (sleeves in a beautiful roll), gold watch, ring, and riding boots. Girlfriend of a Kappa Sigma. Tri-Delta.

Whales and Longhorns and Sailing, Oh My!

2011-12-27T00:01:00.000-06:00

Wearing my new Pierce Check whale shirt from Vineyard Vines, with my J.PRESS bow tie and my Pacific Sailing School ball cap, and hanging out with my University of Texas garment bag. You always need a decent garment bag.

Texas's Own Vineyard Vines...Plano, TX

2011-12-26T14:42:00.007-06:00

I headed down North Dallas Parkway to the Shops at Willowbend in order to visit Texas's very first Vineyard Vines retail location. I really, really liked the way it was laid out. I know my Trad (and even Ivy) readers don't think much of Vineyard Vines, and it's true, I miss their "Made in Canada" pieces at the very least (if not made in the USA at best), but you cannot deny they have a definite place in the Prep Pantheon of brands.

Nice displays, although I am sad I missed the Santa hatted Whale I heard so much about.

I briefly considered one of the ties or the bow ties, but...

...ended up with something else instead.

o/~ Deck the halls with Vineyard Vines, fa la la la la la la la la o/~

In the end, I decided on a Pierce Check button down shirt for only $24 with tax. I'm looking forward to wearing it, it's already soft, but it's headed into the wash first so I actually can wear it. I also ran into a lovely subject named Taylor who agreed to pose for one of my They Wear posts. Her boyfriend is a Kappa Sigma, and I was wearing my button. She shall appear tomorrow.

I miss Fukuchiyama

2011-12-26T00:09:00.001-06:00

Mikoshi, Mikoshi....Kawasaki Daishi, Japan

2011-12-26T00:07:00.003-06:00

Yay, Socks...

2011-12-25T17:06:00.005-06:00

Actually, quite colorful. The RL motif is amusing. I also did get a pair of LL Bean shoes, but they are not the right size nor the right type, and so will have to be exchanged. More when that happens.

Norwegian Sweater by LL Bean, OCBD, watch, and NATO strap by Brooks Brothers, khakis by Polo Ralph Lauren. And my trusty Longhorns cap.

Christmas 2011 - Midnight Mass Attire

2011-12-24T20:11:00.008-06:00

Shirt and Polo by Polo Ralph Lauren, jacket, slacks, and socks by Uniqlo, tassel loafers by Colehaan, County Cork, Ireland tartan tie, made of Scottish wool.

Notable: Knights of Columbus pin.

Relaxed...Austin, Texas

2011-12-23T01:09:00.004-06:00

Shirt by Polo Ralph Lauren, khakis by Deco, socks by Deco, belt by J. CREW, shoes by Sperry Top-Siders, watch and band by Brooks Brothers.

Yes, dammit, socks with Sperrys. When it's cold, that happens.

Christmas Holidays = More Posts

2011-12-22T23:35:00.004-06:00

Dear Readers, given that I actually take my studies seriously, I tend to post a lot during the holidays and nearly none at all during the regular school year, especially during midterms or finals. I did well this past semester. Not as high of a grade as I had hoped for, but very, VERY close. Thus, I will be posting much more often again until Mid-January when school starts up again. I may even find myself posting every day. For those of you who follow along regularly, you will find that this is my modus operandi. I don't ever stop blogging, but I have certain priorities that must be acknowledged, foremost among them are my studies.

A very short series of updates:

Essential advice for the Prep set and pretty much everyone else. Never replace anything until you have exhausted all possibility of repair, restoration, or rehabilitation. No matter what it is, they don't make it as well as they used to. This goes doubly so for any luxury items, and applies equally to Shetland sweaters as it does to your Land Rover.

Or your MacBook:

What you see appears to be a shiny, new MacBook. This is because Apple just replaced the (Japanese) keyboard, top case, and screen bezel for FREE. Apparently the plastic in the old top case parts were made of a material that a) stained b) cracked. So despite this being a 2008 model and quite out of warranty, the replacement of a newly designed top case and bezel were provided at no cost to me. This is but one of my MacBooks (the other is MacBook Pro I use only at home for video editing projects), but this one is my Work/School/Travel MacBook and the one many of my posts have been written on it. It only recently became underpowered compared to the video editing work I was attempting (mainly full 1080p stuff) and it handles almost everything, so I was very disappointed when the top case started cracking throughout and around the keyboard and the bezel began to peel off. Now, I would say it has a good three or four years extra life on it. As I keep all original packaging, I may even be able to sell it for a reasonable amount of money. Good show, Apple.

My parents insisted on giving them a Christmas list. I have asked for an Apple TV, LL Bean Duck Boots, or LL Bean Camp Mocs, but I have insisted they need not get me anything:

I will be traveling to DC in February, and before that Austin. I plan to get some pictures and post them for the Travel section.

Tata for now, all you Muffys, Biffs, Kikis and Tripps.

ALLIGATOR FAIL

2011-12-22T23:15:00.004-06:00

io9.com reports:

Why did Lacoste try to suppress a Palestinian artist’s science fictional art project?
BY CHARLIE JANE ANDERS

Palestinian artist Larissa Sansour uses science fictional imagery to discuss her people's stateless condition, so her work was always bound to cause some controversy. She's done a host of short films playing with science fiction movie themes, and commenting on Middle Eastern politics.

But after Sansour's "sci-fi photo series" Nation Estate became one of the finalists for the Lacoste Elysée Prize 2011 — a prestigious award that carries a payment of over $30,000 — the contest's sponsor, Lacoste, insisted that her work be disqualified. (Yes, the company that makes those funny alligator shirts.) Sansour's name was removed from the prize's website, and the photos were removed from an upcoming issue of the magazine ArtReview.

The Nation Estate Project imagines the entire Palestinian people living in one giant high-rise building, sort of like a J.G. Ballard novel, with each floor representing a different city. It's an offshoot of one of her science fictional short films. Sansour told the Daily Star:

"I think the most shocking thing about this development, is that I didn't apply for this prize... They nominated [me] only to revoke my nomination later on grounds that my work is 'too pro-Palestinian.'"

At first the Musee de l'Elysee stood behind Lacoste's decision to remove her work after it had already been chosen for inclusion by the judges. But later, in a statement, the museum changed its position, announcing it was suspending the contest and distancing itself from Lacoste's decision:

"The Musee de l'Elysee has based its decision on the private partner's wish to exclude Larissa Sansour. We reaffirm our support to [her] for the artistic quality of her work and her dedication... For 25 years, the Musee de l'Elysee has defended with strength artists, their work, freedom of the arts and of speech. With the decision it has taken today, the Musee de l'Elysee repeats its commitment to its fundamental values."

Greek Life, Prep Style

2011-11-26T23:47:00.005-06:00

In the South, and perhaps especially in Texas, fraternities and sororities are almost a forgone conclusion for a significant segment of the population. If you come from a Southern family, and you are a legacy, the likelihood of you going Greek is is pretty high. My mother is a Kappa Delta, one uncle is a Delta Kappa Epsilon, another is a Southern Gentleman of the Kappa Alpha Order. My father was not a fraternity man- far too "independent" and "creative" for that, I suppose, but it is undeniable that Greek Life has a serious pull on a portion of my family.

Although I rushed and pledged a fraternity in my undergraduate days at the University of Texas, due to the darker side of the Greek System, I depledged. I won't name the organisation here, but I was invited, as a pledge, to a blackface party. My egalitarian sensibilities were deeply offended, and I did not return. I thought that would be my last brush with Greek Life. As fate and curiosity would have it, I discovered Greek Life was alive and well at the university where I am pursuing my graduate studies, and I was curious to see if my former experience could be confirmed or denied.

I decided to rush, and I was surprised to discover I was not the oldest to do so, nor the first graduate student to do so, and I found a group of guys I really enjoyed hanging out with. I pledged and was initiated into Kappa Sigma Fraternity, the bulk of my pledge class were first term freshmen. A unique experience to say the least. A unique experience that continues...

...and also has an excellent sense of style.

Edward R. Murrow was a Kappa Sigma.

Waving the Kappa Sigma flag in a nifty bow tie.

Kappa Sigma and Vineyard Vines join forces for A Greater Cause.

AEKDB, Brothers. And to all my Greeks, "From the outside, you can't understand it. From the inside, you can't explain it."

Photo Credits: Murrow Museum, Austin Photography, Vineyard Vines.

By George

2011-11-26T14:57:00.002-06:00

George, of J. CREW.

Samurai Chic...Fukuchiyama Castle

2011-10-15T20:32:00.002-05:00

Oh, hi there...

2011-10-07T14:28:00.001-05:00

THE IFB WEEKLY ROUNDUP: LINKS À LA MODE: OCTOBER 6TH

2011-10-07T10:18:00.001-05:00

International Intrigue

Edited by Taylor Davies

This weeks selections for Links a la Mode take us all around the globe and back again. From vintage shopping in Paris and Istanbul to picking the best from fashion weeks abroad, our community is buzzing with news and thoughts from overseas.

Of course we couldn't leave out some more local stories entirely, so we've sprinkled in a selection of fall inspirations from some American bloggers; from menswear to DIY projects to some ethical debates in advertising and journalism.

THE IFB WEEKLY ROUNDUP: LINKS À LA MODE: OCTOBER 6TH

★ Alex Drake Vintage: Autumn 2011
★ Aqui: DIY Fabric Necklace
★ Being Zhenya: Thrifting for Treasure
★ Beyond Fabric: On Head wear
★ Cadence & Clementine: Contradicting Collaborations
★ Can Ya Heel Me?: Ethics in Blogging: A Philadelphia Fashion Week Controversy
★ Cosmolawlitan: Reebok’s Toning Shoes Do Not Tone As Advertised
★ Dress Code: High Fashion: Louis Vuitton Exhibition at La Trienalle, Milano
★ Little Miss Make-up: Best Mascara 2011
★ Midwest Mayhem: Sweater Girls
★ Miss Viki: 25 Hours Hotel: Vienna is a Circus
★ My Fashion Lust List: Budapest Design Week
★ Naked Glory: Guide to Vintage Shopping in Paris
★ Oranges & Apples: How to Pack for a Long Trip in a Hot Country
★ Overseeing Fashion: Shopping in Istanbul
★ Pretty Innovative: ASOS Ramps Up Global Fashion Marketing
★ Simply Frabulous: Milano Fashion Week: Time For Elegance
★ Susu Paris Chic: Lady Shapes
★ Tomorrow At Dawn: Schoolgirl Style
★ The Red Dot: Paris Fashion Week Street Style Part 1

PLEASE READ IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO PARTICIPATE

If you would like to submit your link for next week’s Links à la Mode, please register first, then post your links HERE. The HTML code for this week will be found in the Links a la Mode group will be published later today. ~Jennine

SPONSOR:

New Boots at Shopbop: Jill Sander, Sam Edelman, Jeffrey Campbell, KORS, Ash,Costume National, Hunter Boots, Sorels, Frye, Kelsi Dagger, Juicy Couture, Minnetonka, NDC, Coclico, Vera Wang, & Joie.

THE IFB WEEKLY ROUNDUP: LINKS À LA MODE: SEPTEMBER 29TH

2011-10-06T19:10:00.001-05:00

Spring Forward, Fall Back

Edited by: Collette Osuna of Statements in Fashion

I’m not sure about you, but just as men look forward to Fall for sporting events that keep them on the couch, I look forward to Fall for my own selfish reasons......adding to my closet collection!

If you enjoy sipping a cup of coffee while you browse your favorite online shopping sites, or if you prefer to rise with the sun to open the doors of your favorite Mall, Fall shopping is the time for you.

Thanks to Fashion Week, we have all had a chance to peek at the newest clothing, boots and accessories that will be filling up retail stores everywhere this season.

This weeks links focus on hot Fall runway trends, Collection debuts, DIY’s, makeup & hair tips, and even how to manage deadlines. Fall is back bloggers, and with a vengeance!

THE IFB WEEKLY ROUNDUP: LINKS À LA MODE: SEPTEMBER 29TH

★ ChiCquero: Mongolian Style Makeup Editorial
★ Mahlia Calloway: This Seasons Must Haves
★ Girl Loves Color: Color on the Runway: Mary Katrantzou
★ The Loudmouth: On Detours & Deadlines
★ Angela Osborn: Dear White Shirt, I love you very much!
★ This is a Yes: My Clothing Picks - Still for the Summer and Already for the Fall
★ Leia's Delights: Shopping Philosophy - knowing when to spend or splurge
★ Wishing for Chanel: Wear the runway trend now - Purple hues at Prabal Gurung S/S12
★ Fashion Dynamite: How I wore my favorite fall trend - the cape
★ Kirstin Marie: A small collection of my most coveted Fashion Inspiration DIY blogs.
★ Dress Code: High Fashion: Jean Paul Gaultier F/W 11/12
★ Bang byLo: How to salvage a pair of shoes with glitter
★ V is for Olive: Discovering the hidden gems of the California desert
★ Juliets Lace: Autumn tips, accessories and cover ups.
★ The Chic Sheet: Three Spring Trends To Try Now
★ WanderLost: My top 10 favorites for Fall
★ The Style Confessions: One way to style your Missoni for Target find
★ Believe in Faery Tales: Eden Park or 'The Why to Paris' - An intern's tale
★ Style Sizzle: 5 Barbie Style Lessons
★ Oh to be a Muse: Keeping it Real, Natural Hair Care

PLEASE READ IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO PARTICIPATE
If you would like to submit your link for next week’s Links à la Mode, please register first, then post your links HERE. The HTML code for this week will be found in the Links a la Mode group will be published later today. ~Jennine

SPONSOR:
Women's Sweaters at Shopbop: Vince, Chinti & Parker, Theory Sweater, Milly, Preen, Joie, James Perse, Sonia Rykiel, Cardigans, Splendid, Elie Tahari, Pencey, & Sweater Dresses.

Upcoming Posts on Kyoto Maiko

2011-10-02T21:58:00.004-05:00

In two weeks, I will be headed to Japan to pay my taxes and renew my drivers license, and so I will be snapping Japanese street style for my They Wear section, which I haven't done in at least a year.

I have also decided that I will be applying to Yale, Princeton, Cornell, Baylor, and University of Connecticut, for my PhD program, and I plan to visit the campuses in spring.

Keep tuned in!

80s Mixers and Photobombs

2011-10-02T18:28:00.006-05:00

The time period is for John over at The Wide Wale, and the sweater is for Muffy at The Daily Prep.

Vintage 1980s Norwegian Birdseye Sweater by LL Bean, pink polo by Polo Ralph Lauren (collar up!), watch by Kelton, NATO strap by American Eagle Outfitters, jeans by Banana Republic, white socks, shoes by Bass Weejuns, and wearing sunglasses at night.

Notable: pennies in the penny loafers, right foot is 1980, left foot is 1989.

The Last Cries of Summer: Day 3

2011-09-14T23:32:00.003-05:00

Blazer by GGIO II, Shirt and Belt by Polo Ralph Lauren, Khakis by Deco, Madras Tie by Lands' End (Made in USA).

The Last Cries of Summer: Day 2

2011-09-13T11:43:00.004-05:00

Polo by Lacoste, watch by Brooks Brothers, NATO strap by American Eagle Outfitters, vintage unlabeled 1980s velcro tri-fold wallet, belt by Uniqlo, shorts by Rugby Ralph Lauren, iPhone 4 by Apple, shoes by Sperry Top-siders, TWU NPC Rush 2011 sunglasses (AOΠ, AΓΔ, ΣΣΣ).

The IFB Weekly Roundup: LINKS À LA MODE: September 8th

2011-09-12T14:57:00.002-05:00

Be Authentically You!
Edited by: Fajr of Stylish Thought

The IFB conference is over and the dust is finally settling. After a day of being immersed in the power and study of blogging, I’m left thinking about what I learned from IFB this season. Without a doubt, the unequivocal theme was to blog and be authentically you. From building your blogging tool kit to balancing it all, being unique and putting what you love into the blogging space is the best method to lasting blogging success.

The IFB Weekly Roundup: LINKS À LA MODE: September 8th

★ Arash Mazinani: Are A/W 2011 Trends Uninspiring?
★ Britt + Whit: Ode to Summer
★ Bubbling with Elegance & Grace: Flawless- Sizing Concerns
★ Dress with Courage: A Woman’s Right to Shoes
★ Fashables: 4 Jackets you will love for Fall
★ Glamour Laws: Sunnies Side Up
★ Labels and Love: Why Eradicate Style?
★ Liv Lux Mag: DIY Band of Outsiders Inspired Skirt
★ Metaphors in Blue: Five Fabulous Things Every Girl Needs
★ Modly Chic: Fall 2011 Fashion Trends
★ One Outfit at a Time: 10 Signs You’re a Raging Shopaholic
★ Small Town Big Wardrobe: Four Red Lipstick Reviews
★ Style Through Her Eyes: Watch Those Lips
★ Stylish Thought: Life Lessons to a Younger Self
★ Sugar and Spice: Your Relationship with Shoes
★ Superstylin: Jadetribe on a Global Quest
★ The Fashion Edition: Memoirs of a Geisha
★ The Loudmouth: Look Living the Dream
★ The Style Project: Modern Vintage
★ Woodstock Wardrobe: Classic Closet- Penny Gac

SPONSOR:
Satchel Bags at Shopbop: Roccatella, See by Chloe, Tory Burch Bags, Jerome Dreyfuss, Derek Lam bags, Tory Burch Wallets, Anya Hindmarch bags, DVF bags, Alexander Wang, Rachel Zoe bags, Juicy Couture bags.

PLEASE READ IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO PARTICIPATE
If you would like to submit your link for next week’s Links à la Mode, please register first, then post your links HERE. The HTML code for this week will be found in the Links a la Mode group will be published later today. ~Jennine

The Last Cries of Summer: Day 1

2011-09-12T10:45:00.002-05:00

Shirt by Polo Ralph Lauren, tie by the (now defunct) The President (made in the USA), trousers by Jil Sander for Uniqlo, belt by US Polo Assn, watch by Brooks Brothers, NATO strap by American Eagle Outfitters, cordovan penny loafers by Polo Ralph Lauren (Made by Crockett & Jones in England). Still 97 out, so NO SOCKS.

Lands' End Hyde Park Oxford

2011-09-11T14:23:00.003-05:00

Came across this heavy, stiff, and seemingly new Lands' End Hyde Park oxford cloth button down, made in the USA. It's boxy on me. Not surprising when I am actually someone for whom the "trim fits" and what have you actually fit better. However, I imagine it will see quite a bit of use in the late fall and winter when I will probably wear a thick undershirt below it and a layer or two over it. It just needs a bajillion washes to get as soft and comfortable as my much older (for a few, significantly older) OCBDs.

New Loafers!

2011-09-10T16:18:00.002-05:00

What does $37 and a good deed get you? These:

Yep. That's several hundred dollars of footwear for being nice to a friend and $37 at a thrift store. I just love the Ralph Lauren penny loafers, but all the Colehaans are nice too. I probably won't keep the black buckle pair, I'll be putting them on Ebay.

And now for something completely different...

2011-09-05T09:59:00.001-05:00

Japan Times Article "The Best of His Years"

2011-08-28T00:02:00.003-05:00

This is what it's like when worlds collide! This is posted on both of my blogs, Kyoto Maiko and the Kimagure Orange Road Goods Blog.

I was supposed to be included in this article on Matsumoto Izumi and the history of the comic book (and subsequent anime adaption) he created, Kimagure Orange Road. I expected to be identified as the number one KOR fan in the world, and pictures had been taken to display my collection of merchandise. However, the editor of the piece chose to focus on Matsumoto's personal history, and not so much on KOR, and both my contributions and my pictures were cut from the final article (I am mentioned at the end).

So, instead, I am publishing them myself.

The IFB Weekly Roundup: LINKS À LA MODE: AUG 25TH

2011-08-27T23:20:00.003-05:00

Knock, knock, Who's there? It's me September! The month you learn to love and hate... But love more.

That's right everyone September is right around the corner waiting to knock on your door. As fashion bloggers this gets to be a rather insane month. You run around like crazy from place to place and your schedule may seem never ending. I don't know about you, but I tend to ask myself... How can I top last September? It's a month for makeovers! Now before you go grab your friends and have a scene straight out of Clueless, let me clarify what I mean by makeover. I don't expect you to be only concerned about what you're wearing but EVERYTHING! I believe September is a great month for change. Refresh your wardrobe, change your writing style up a bit, find different angles to cover shows, go back and look at last September and figure out how to spice things up this year, perhaps it's time to refresh your gadgets?, change your make-up palette, read new content, simply explore! Change is usually a good thing.

The IFB Weekly Roundup: LINKS À LA MODE: AUG 25TH

★ 33 avenue Miquelon: The September Issue – Advertising vs. Content: Vogue 2011
★ Clothes: Top 5 Retailer Magazines: Where you can get the best editorial for FREE!
★ Cosmolawlitan: The Poignant Legal Issues About Children Fashion Models
★ designer purushu: Being a Model is not so Glamorous
★ Dramatis Personae: DIY: How to Make a Cork board Jewelry Frame
★ Dress Code: High Fashion: Vivienne Westwood and Photographer Jurgen Teller campaign for a Better World.
★ Fashion. Beauty. Feminism: Letting go of Pretty
★ Fashioned by Love: Faces of Fall 2011
★ Fashion Isha: You Asked - FASHION-ISHA Answers: Dressing for Your Body Type
★ Girl Loves Color: Women Wear the Pants
★ Independent Fashion Bloggers: Come to the IFB Conference NYC at Milk Studios, Joe Zee Keynotes
★ Kyoto Maiko: Notes on readership
★ La Rogue: V Magazine is Pro-Choice
★ Miss V Viki: Inside Restaurant Artner
★ Studded Fantasy: Tangerine Tales
★ Stylebizarre: Work from home? Blogging it’s totally not.
★ Tickle Me Chic: The Cats Meow
★ The Styling Dutchman: What's Her Face, Dolores Haze: the Humbert Humbert in All of Us.
★ The Taxonomy of my Wardrobe: The Creation Of Order.
★ The Vintage Traveler: Know Thyself

SPONSOR:
Fashion's Night Out at Shopbop: Hakaan, Raoul, Dsquared2, Clutches, Parker, Sonia Rykiel, Aiko, Rag & Bone, Ash, Siwy, Bags, MM6, & Rachel Zoe Clothing.

PLEASE READ IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO PARTICIPATE
If you would like to submit your link for next week’s Links à la Mode, please register first, then post your links HERE. The HTML code for this week will be found in the Links a la Mode group will be published later today. ~Jennine

The IFB Weekly Roundup: LINKS À LA MODE: AUG 18TH

2011-08-18T11:34:00.002-05:00

The seasons are changing and as fashion and or style bloggers, you know what that means? Time to switch stuff up! Whether it be your content or your wardrobe, I always look at the seasons as a time for change-- a time to gather inspiration from the streets or from your heart and just run with it. This week's roundup talks about issues such as "The issue fashion blogs may be facing" to "Finding the perfect fall color palette." All important topics, right? Needless to say they're interesting reads and certainly make the mind wander. Enjoy!

The IFB Weekly Roundup: LINKS À LA MODE: AUG 18TH

★ Angela Osborn: Guide to DIY- 7 spendid tips
★ Beauty.Fashion.Inner Fierceness: It’s okay to take a break (Your blog will thank you)
★ Bella Busta: Knock out color combos for Fall (+ styling tips)
★ Beyond Fabric: Give it up for...Camel
★ Can ya heel me: The voice of fashion bloggers
★ Chic n Cheap Living: {Shopping} Guide: How to shop on Ebay
★ Fashables: The search for a great bag
★ Fashioned by love: Green inspirations
★ Fashion Moriarty: Peaceful Protest
★ Forever Amber: Often Imitated: Half assed hair tutorial: Gigantic messy bun head
★ Independent Fashion Bloggers: Do you need press credentials to cover NYFW?
★ J.Rose Style: Outfit Chronicles: Daytime Sparkle
★ January Sublime: Boohoo AW Press Day!
★ Kyoto Maiko: The proper care and feeding of a boat shoe
★ Leia’s Delights: Has Fashion Blogging Made you more body-conscious?
★ Simply Frabulous: Stockholm Fashion Week Day 2: Rützou
★ Tea for Two: Their brand, your blog and how to respect yourself
★ The Loudmouth Lifestyle: How to pack light... with heavy clothing!
★ The Simply Luxurious Life: Kate-Moss-Vogue US- September 2011
★ The Taxonomy Of My Wardrobe: What is Precious?

SPONSOR:
Fashion's Night Out at Shopbop: Antipodium, Holy Tee, Obakki, DKNY Intimates, Daftbird, C&C California, Pamela Love, Thakoon dresses, & Rachel Zoe collection.

PLEASE READ IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO PARTICIPATE
If you would like to submit your link for next week’s Links à la Mode, please register first, then post your links HERE. The HTML code for this week will be found in the Links a la Mode group will be published later today. ~Jennine

Guest Post: German Ivy?

2011-08-17T09:30:00.000-05:00

When it comes to Non-American perceptions and definitions of American influenced "prep/trad/ivy" style, the resulting mash-up of styles and items can result in combinations that may appear unusual, strange, or even contrary to American eyes. Yet by looking deeper, it is possible to see the genealogy of these looks and what key items, fabrics, designs, or cuts international audiences look to in order to create their own perceptions of the American experience. To that end, guest blogger Blue joins us with a short description of the German perception of this classic American style.

Here’s a wild guess: You are reading this blog because you are interested in what Kionon writes and thinks about. Then you know that one of his topics is prep or Ivy style. This style is traditionally American, but is it strictly American as well?

This is where I come in. I am from Germany and usually blog over at Metaphors in Blue, but today Kionon invited me to share my two German cents. While I wish I had travelled enough to write about Ivy style in all of Europe, that is not the case, so I will not even pretend to be an expert.

We live in a globalized world, so Ivy style has been exported to countries other than the United States. Germany is one of theses countries. While Ivy stlye is not a widespread phenomenon here (there have not been that many German entries to the Tommy Hilfiger Prep Style Challenge…), there are still traces of it.

I distinctly remember seeing spreads of “preppy style” and “college style” in German fashion magazines. However, they were apparently not deemed important enough to be put in their online archives, at least not in a place where I could find them… But then again, that could also mean that they are super-important, top-secret and all that. Who knows.

This is how Instyle Germany does Ivy... They call it "College Chic."

Many classic brands of Ivy Style are available here and in many, many other countries. You see people wearing Lacoste, Fred Perry, Marco Polo, Polo Ralph Lauren, and Tommy Hilfiger on any given day. The elements of that style are worn. Polo shirts are by no means a recent addition to the average German wardrobe and over the past few seasons, chinos have made a successful comeback. Argyle sweaters may be back en vogue as well.

And Glamour Germany. I actually have that bag. And can someone please explain those pants?

Something else I would like to remark: the people whose style could be called “Ivy” here are very similar to those who traditionally dress in Ivy in the United States, socioeconomically at least. Prep school are even rarer here than they are in the U.S., and there are very few private universities (and the universities with the best reputation are public and free or almost free). Still, for some reason Ivy style and privilege are linked. We will leave those reasons for Kionon to discuss, because I am at a loss here…

So yes, there is some Ivy in Germany, and it is growing.

How does Ivy manifest itself in your part of the world?

Korea

2011-08-16T22:38:00.000-05:00

I lived in Korea for six months. This was my studio apartment in Ilsan, near Seoul:

And a whole bunch of out of order random photos of Korea. I had a different camera and different computers, so things are all mixed up and of different resolutions.

Why, yes, the University of Texas did operate a dental clinic in the very same building I lived in. In Korea. Yeah, I thought it was cool, too.

Notes on Readership

2011-08-15T17:39:00.001-05:00

Dear Readers,

My audience is all over the map, but I know that my intended audience and my actual audience differ, with a few notable exceptions. I know this because there are a few blog related questions that keep popping up. Sometimes in comments. Mostly in emails or private messages. They specifically pertain, as I understand it, to other bloggers trying to find more exposure, and wish to use my blog to do it. This is fine, but rather than answer the same questions over and over again, I've opted to write this post instead:

1) Whom does your blog serve?

Excellent question. My blog has two primary foci. The first, which it has been heavily tilted towards since my return to Texas, is the American style associated with the labels "prep" or "ivy." I've been described on other blogs as a "prep blogger" or an "ivy style" blogger. I set out initially to document my own style after a project in social networking lead to comments "you should start a blog!" I did not, however, set out to become a "prep blogger." That just sort of happened based on my own style choices and the blogs I ended up reading after starting my own. It is my intent to document examples of others when I come across them. I am not a photographer, however, and this is not an online "portfolio" of work.

The second focus is Japanese street style. I love Japanese street style. I, myself, would never wear most of the things I see in Tokyo, Osaka, or Kyoto, but I also happen to love snapping pictures of these people and sharing them with others. Kyoto Maiko was originally established as a Japanese travel blog that went absolutely nowhere. Rather than start a new blog, I simply recycled the one I already had. This focus will feature more prominently in the future when I return to Japan. You will see some of these subjects in October.

Sometimes these two foci intersect. There is a very real Japanese fashion subculture associated with the "prep" and "Ivy" styles, and I thoroughly enjoy finding these individuals, photographing them, and sharing their stories. The Japanese have a significant stake in Ivy (they even own J. PRESS). I believe my travel and history posts are very relevant to the first focus, although much less relevant (aside from Japan pictures) to the second focus.

2) Are you or do you wish to be a professional blogger?

No. Most emphatically no. This is a hobby, a leisure activity. I do not want it to become a job. Therefore, I have opted, at this time, not to allow advertisements in the header, footer, or margin areas of my blog. This will only change for exceptional reasons. I do not feel that I have the time to devote to maintaining the blog in such a way as it would be profitable for permanent ad space. I am very involved in my MA program, I am coaching speech and interview at my former high school, and I'm involved in various clubs and activities. I have been on vacation the last few weeks which is largely why my posts have been every day or nearly every day. They will not be updated so frequently during the regular school year, but I will try to keep a fairly decent schedule. I do intend to continue doing reviews of essentials, and my "no advertising" rules do not apply to reviews.

3) Will you follow me? Will you follow me if I follow you?

Maybe. Probably not. Despite what you may think, followers (like pageviews) are a very inaccurate and indirect way of gauging readership. I only officially "follow" a blog (in the blogger.com sense) if it is a blog I read every day. These are typically the blogs on my blog roll, and I do not just exchange blog roll links either. I think following and blog rolling say quite a bit. They tell your readers that those bloggers you follow or blog roll produce content that you are really, really interested in. By following or blog rolling you are making a claim that their content is relevant to your foci, and therefore relevant to your readers.

Even blogs I read every few days or once a week don't merit this. I may still mention them in posts. An excellent example is V of Grit & Glamour, whom I've mentioned before. I enjoy her take on blogger ethics and issues in blogging in general, but she's not a blogger I read every day, and she's not a prep/trad/ivy blogger. This isn't to say she's not a great writer, it's just to say her foci are different from the foci of my intended audience. My followed blogs and my blog roll represent my intended audience (after all, given my personal style, I am my intended audience, so I should know!).

I suppose my one exception is Tavi over at Style Rookie, who personally, I just adore and have adored since she started blogging (that she has recently argued with me over the marking of books is just a bonus). She reminds me of myself in some ways (although I didn't blog, I wrote kooky pieces of fiction, and wore outlandish outfits to conventions, very "un-prep"), and she also reminds me of what I love most about being a teacher of that particular age group. If you don't get it, you probably shouldn't teach. So, in her case, I'll break my own rules. All rules exist to be broken- presuming they're broken under the right circumstances. Tavi is just such an exception.

The Sartorialist needs no explanation.

4) Will you visit my blog if I leave the URL in my comment?

Yes, but you don't need to. I usually check the blogger identity page of every single person who comments. That means placing your URL in the comments is unnecessary and redundant. I'll visit your blog anyhow. Especially if you leave a relevant and well thought out comment. However, when included after a two or three word comment that is very generic, it can come off as tacky. I'll still check it out, and I won't delete the comment or block it, but it will get a frown from me when I see it. Something to think about: the comments I get like this are from bloggers with content that is pretty much irrelevant to my foci. I doubt this is coincidental.

5) Do you allow guest posts?

As long as they are relevant to my foci, absolutely. Get ahold of me by twitter to get my attention, and if you send your email address, I'll respond. Now if you want to blog about something entirely unrelated to the areas I usually cover, then perhaps my blog is not the best place to be submitting your guest post. I don't expect guest posting status in return, but if you wish to offer it, that's cool too.

6) Can I use your pictures?

Are you an individual? Non-commercial purposes? Sure, just make sure to include an attribution and a link. Something along the lines of "photo by" or "courtesy of" with a hyperlink attached. Are you a business? Planning to use my photos for commercial purposes? Are you a professional blogger? If any of these, get ahold of me on twitter and we'll talk. Confused by this? Read the IFB Fair Compensation Manifesto linked in the right hand margin.

7) Will you do product reviews?

I already do, if I own the products, or want to own them. Do you mean will I do them for commercial entities or brands? Yes. However, I expect full editorial control and by law am required to include a disclosure. These are non-negotiable. Again, refer to the IFB Fair Compensation Manifesto. I'm not looking for brands to work with, this is, after all, a hobby, but there are certainly brands that I would work with if approached. Again, reviews only. No ad placements.

8) If I write a negative comment, will I be censored?

Rarely. Unless you are blatantly offensive, as in the case of racism, sexism, religious slurs, etc. These types of comments have no place in civilised dialogue, and they are not appropriate here. However, if you disagree with a review or a behavior post, or you just dislike what I happen to be wearing, as long as your criticism is written politely and academically, there will be no censorship. Not everyone is going to agree, and I'm secure enough in my style to accept criticism from those who have different opinions. Keep it the tone you would use in a university classroom, and we're probably going to be fine.

If you have any questions after reading these answers, feel free to leave a comment about it.

I Wear Minus The I

2011-08-14T21:43:00.000-05:00

Usually, photos for my blog are taken outside with me in the clothes. Since I did not go out today, I forgot. So, Instead, it's just the clothes, and not myself. Perhaps, however, this is something that makes it easier to see the items. Especially items that have never shown up before, like my wallet.

Items are: vintage interlock Polo Ralph Lauren polo, made in the USA, frayed and ragged but lovingly repaired at least three times. US Polo Assn shorts, made in China. Kenneth Cole tri-fold wallet, made in Italy. Polo Ralph Lauren ribbon belt, made in the USA. Vintage Kelton watch, made in the USA. American Eagle Outfitters NATO strap, made in China. G. H. Bass boat shoes, made in China (re-laced with made in the USA laces). Always be aware.

Taiwan

2011-08-14T13:55:00.000-05:00

Keep Your Closet Organised

2011-08-13T10:54:00.000-05:00

There is nothing more annoying than spending valuable time trying to find an item you know you have, but you don't know where it is. This is doubly true when you happen to be in quite the hurry. To avoid that, keep your closet organised.

I'm not a fan of using dressers, but rather of using several small modular shelves inside of the closet to create clearly defined sections for t-shirts, polo shirts, shorts, foldable pants (jeans, sweats, track pants, perhaps khakis), and shoes. A long plank shelf is useful for undergarments and socks. By making these areas uncovered, it is easy to look at your closet and immediately know what you have (and what you don't, as if it is missing, it's probably in the laundry) and how to pair items for however you intend to dress that day. I have slacks for each of the coats shown and are off behind the coats, as are my two pairs of khakis. Some people fold them, I tend to hang them. Either is fine for chino material.

Do you wear ties? Get a tie rack, and learn to take care of your ties. Despite awesome displays (like this one from Kiel James Patrick), do not leave your ties tied. The wrinkles will set and it will be a hard day of steaming to get them out (I've also found hanging them up in the bathroom while you shower will work on some ties, but not on others). I also have my ribbon belts rolled and placed on top of the tie rack, though a few I wear over and over and over are hanging from behind it.

You may notice that I seem to have further subdivided by style, material, and label, but it's much more sophisticated a system. You will note that my tennis racket (a vintage Wilson T5000 that, yes, I do play with) is hanging near my KSWISS tennis shoes (worn pretty much only for tennis, but sometimes general exercising or jogging), my Lacoste polo shirts, and my collection of shorts (including the white shorts I would be most likely to wear when playing). Although not seen here, my white crew socks are on the other side of the racket, under my coats. This makes it extremely simple for me to grab precisely what I know I'll need for a game.

Polo shirts, whether mesh or interlock, are essentially fine knits and if hung will stretch and tear (usually around the neck or armpits) and should always be folded and stacked. I've further subdivided by mesh (left) and interlock (right), but that isn't necessary. I've heard that you're not supposed to stack folded items more than three high, but I think that mostly applies to thick knits like cable knit sweaters. I don't know how true that really is. It's highly unlikely to affect polo shirts.

Shoes each get their own cubby. I actually need another module, because as you can see, recent acquisitions have caused me to have less space than I have shoes. Dressier shoes on the right (brown oxfords, burgundy Bass Weejuns, black bluchers), casual shoes on the left (blucher mocs, boat shoes, boat shoes, more boat shoes, camp mocs are soon to be added). My one pair of golf shoes are deeper in the closet on the left side.

Long sleeved shirts are all button down in this picture. Shirts are organised by style and label. Shirts include Polo Ralph Lauren, Brooks Brothers, American Living, and GANT. Not in view are two Hawaiian shirts for tiki parties or beach parties ONLY, two white broadcloth dress shirts without button down collars for when button downs would be inappropriate, and flannels which are unnecessary in 105F temperatures. Everyone's been wearing ginghams this summer, so I've opted not to, figuring I'll save it for a future summer. I'm in the process of seeking out nice, soft tattersalls.

On the top rack, since they are usually unnecessary, are two emergency heavy hitters in case of extreme air conditioning: 1980s LL Bean Norwegian Birds-eye sweater, and the University of Texas school sweatshirt in navy and white. Perched on top of those are my four ballcaps (Pacific Sailing School, United Nations Naval Service, Hook' Em Horns, Texas). Next to the hats and sweaters is a herringbone wool scarf and my woven basket of pocket squares. All other winter clothes are packed.

I know where everything is and what everything is immediately upon looking at my closet. As long as I remember to return items to their appropriate place when they are not in need of washing or immediately after laundering, my system remains intact. How do you organise your closet?

Guam

2011-08-12T23:30:00.000-05:00

British Taste...London, England

2011-08-12T11:33:00.001-05:00

Photo by Chris Kimmett. Modeling by Lizzy Harley.

LINKS À LA MODE: AUG 11th

2011-08-11T11:55:00.000-05:00

One of the major perks of being a fashion blogger is joining a rich community of people to learn from. This week's links are all about education--from posts that take a critical look at fashion-inspired books, to an inside look at the much buzzed about fashion summer camp. Of course, we couldn't leave out a link to our favorite education event... the upcoming IFB Conference! We hope you enjoy (and learn something, too!)

LINKS À LA MODE: AUG 11th

★ à tout le monde: Youth Gone Fierce Part Deux!
★ Click Click Flash: Menswear trend report on TEXTURE
★ Clothes: Ones to Watch: Ethical Fashion Forum Innovation Award Winners 2011
★ ckms: Slut Shaming: A response to a Fashion Bloggers, Why? post
★ Cosmolawlitan: Strong Q2 and Q3 Spending in Fashion Luxury Items
★ Dites Moi: Back To School: Autumn Shopping Guide!
★ Fashables: The Boat Shoes that Changed my Mind
★ IFB: Join us for the IFB Conference on Sep. 7 at Milk Studios in NYC
★ Incognito: Perfume is the best model for a fashion designer : How bottles of perfume represent their designer
★ jimpricute: Apron turned dress!
★ Juliet's Lace: How to deal with negative comments
★ Law of Fashion: office no, no...or yes? [bare arms]
★ Love at First Blush: In her Closet: A Shoe Designer's Wardrobe
★ Miss Viki: The Photography Business & The American Dream
★ Morbid Glamour: One Shot: Liberdade
★ North on Harper: Inside Daphne Guinness’ Closet
★ The Arc in the Sky: A fun and philosophical look at the Metropolitan Art Museum's Alexander McQueen exhibit!
★ The Loudmouth Lifestyle: Lookbook Revisited: Looks for Less!
★ The Sunshine Rebellion: Fashion Camp: This exists
★ Wishing for Chanel: Book Review--Style Yourself: Inspirational fashion advice from the world's hottest style bloggers

SPONSOR
New at Shopbop: Sonia Rykiel, Mont St. Michel, Jules Smith, DKNY Intimates, Belts, Pencil Skirts, Dsquared2, Vic Matie, & Rachel Zoe.

PLEASE READ IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO PARTICIPATE
If you would like to submit your link for next week’s Links à la Mode, please register first, then post your links HERE. The HTML code for this week will be found in the Links a la Mode group will be published later today. ~Jennine

Rock the Blucher Moc

2011-08-10T17:19:00.000-05:00

Courtesy of GQ
Despite the fact I am no longer teaching full time because I am working on my Masters in Government, I am still coaching students at my old high school in Speech and Interview for an academic competition called Academic Decathlon. One of my students, Luke, is a big history buff, and is especially fond of German and Prussian history. When working on his speeches, we considered him giving one on how Prussia (a long gone former state) still impacts us today. Luke returned with an entirely different speech (one on papal history, which is also an excellent topic) and apologised about not being able to find any inventions aside from the zeppelin invented by the Prussians, and he didn't think that would be very interesting because almost no one uses zeppelins today.

It will no doubt interest Luke (when I get a chance to tell him, as I will not see him for at least two or three weeks while he enjoys his last bit of summer freedom), that in fact there is one Prussian invention that has withstood the test of time. You see, Gebhard von Blucher, a Prussian military officer and prince, invented the blucher shoe during the Napoleonic Wars. Due to its design of having parallel side flaps (instead of the V shape on earlier shoes), it could be easily adjusted to remain on feet regardless of width of the foot. Since feet come in narrow, medium, and wide lengths for each size, this made it much easier to manufacture combat boots that would be guaranteed to stay put and have a relative degree of comfort. These side flaps became the go to style for most men's lace up dress shoes (the British call them derby shoes). They are also the forerunner to the smaller flaps found on the boat shoe.

I myself have both small feet in men's, and narrow feet at that (also a high arch, which can mean I sometimes have to be careful with boat shoes because standing too long on them at any one time can sometimes tax my feet to much, although even when sailing, I am typically moving or sitting enough that this doesn't become a problem, LL Bean puts some really nice inserts into their blucher mocs that alleviates this concern), I find that Blucher's designed flaps means that while I can't slip in and out of them like boat shoes, they can be cinched to the right width and will stay in place well. These are new shoe laces, and 45" was the smallest I could find. Being a small person, it means I have a lot of lace. Double tied!

While the blucher moc is sometimes seen in summer, it is more often seen as a Fall/Winter/Spring shoe because it offers more coverage and better insulation versus a boat shoe. Although boat shoes in winter have their proponents (myself among them, and yes, I wear socks!), others think that wearing boat shoes when it is 30 or 40 degrees F (that's around 0 for my Celsius readers) looks ridiculous. The Blucher mocs have the same general shape, but add a bulkiness that many think seems more appropriate for colder climates. The brands that I mentioned in the boat shoe post are the same brands one should consider for a blucher moc. I'm quite happy with these LL Bean's I picked up for $19. They're newer (they have the boat shoe bottom and not the traditional camp moc sole, although they can be resoled by Goodyear, which is the maker of the camp moc sole), but not the newest, which is good. I've read that the quality has declined, and while mine are breaking in beautifully, and have a wonderful glove like feel and smell, I can't speak to those you may get right now. I'm not sure if mine were made in the USA (but I think so, given the stamps and the general quality of the leather). The new ones are made in El Salvador. New ones can be had from LL Bean for about $70. For higher quality, but also higher price, consider Quoddy. I've also heard good things about Eastland, but I've only had a chance to check out their suede bluchers (which seemed like good quality with the traditional camp moc bottom), and so I have no idea how their leather quality is.

This is a shoe that should be in your wardrobe. Dressier than a boat shoe, more relaxed than an oxford. At home in a business meeting or in a deck chair enjoying a drink or fishing (or both most likely). Think I'm gonna go get a cold one. Here's to you, Prince Gebhard!

The Proper Care and Feeding of a Boat Shoe

2011-08-09T17:14:00.001-05:00

The Boat Shoe

One prep essential that goes in and out with popular fashion is the boat shoe. For the prep set, however, the boat shoe is a timeless choice that goes with anything. While browns are the most common, and most traditional (and the favorite of the elegant Muffy Aldrich of The Daily Prep), they come in a wide variety of colors and styles. They even come in cloth and sneaker variations, although today's Behavior post is mostly dealing with the leather varieties. I, personally, am partial to the navy. I have both a Bass version and a Sperry version, and while I'm still breaking in the Bass, I probably like the Sperry a bit more. Other makers are Dexter, Sebago, LL Bean, and Quoddy.

The Right Boat Shoe

The first thing you need to know about taking care of your boat shoes is to buy a pair that will last. Due to the increase in popularity many manufacturers are spitting out boat shoes with thin, cheap leather and weak construction. Some are not even true leather. I recently realised that the boat shoe had reached the lowest common denominator when I found $14 pairs in Kohl's that were faux leather and so thin I doubt they could actually withstand any time on the water. I knew we had reached the point of oversaturation when I found a $7 pair made from shiny plastic at Target. Not only will this article be entirely useless if you go with a pair this cheap, they probably wouldn't last a single season. Even with natural leather products, you need to be really careful. If you don't recognise the brand, and can't find information about it online, just move on.

My suggestion, if price is an object, is to forgo a new pair entirely and shop around for a second hand pair. Plenty of decent Sperry's end up in thrift stores, Goodwill, and on ebay. Other brands also become available from time to time. I purchased the Bass shoes above for a mere $10 at Plato's Closet (a chain of resale shops) and until coming to me they were almost certainly unworn (I suspect wrong size or gift without ability to return). It's always worth keeping an eye open.

Cleaning the Sole

All right, assuming you now have (or more likely, have had) your boat shoes and they need cleaning, let's first consider the bottom of the shoe. Given that many boat shoes have a white, off-white, or light grey sole, the bottom can get pretty dirty, pretty fast. This not only makes the shoe look increasingly disgusting as time goes on, if you do sail, you are much more likely to track dirt onto the boat. Since (good) boat shoes are specifically designed to be non-marking, if the shoe has a lot of dark marks on the bottom, you may find that without keeping them clean, you will essentially undo the non-marking design and scuff the deck anyway. This is one of several reasons why, as surprising as it may sound to people who do not sail, you should always clean and prep your boat shoes before going out to sail. Below you can see the difference between a sole that hasn't been cleaned in a while, and a sole that has been recently cleaned.

Find an old toothbrush and some toothpaste. It can be cheap toothpaste, although, for obvious reasons, I am a fan of using whitening formulas. Find yourself a sink to do this over. Rinse the toothbrush and put just a small dab of toothpaste on it. Use it to scrub the sole thoroughly. Don't worry too much about getting some on the leather, but try to avoid blobs. Keep adding water until you get a nice foam across the length of the sole. In downward strokes, scrape the toothpaste (and all the dirt) into the sink. When you've scraped off all of the toothpaste you can, take a rag and wipe anything else off the sole, and do so strongly so that the swivel pattern will open up and you'll grab dirt hidden inside it (the swivel pattern is what gives boat shoes such a strong grip in water, you want to keep them clean and unblocked). Repeat this process until you are satisfied with the results. For extremely stubborn marks, use a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser. They work extremely well. Repeat the process for the sole edges and in the case of Sperry's, the top of the soles that jut out from under the leather. You may need to dislodge dirt and grime by running a finger nail (or something like a finger nail) over the ridges. Do not use a Magic Eraser on the leather, although I've had some success with tennis shoes, there are chemicals in the Magic Eraser that can affect certain colors and dyes.

The Rest

The next step is to clean the leather. You can repeat the process for getting toothpaste, but make sure to scrub very gently. At this stage, you're mostly making sure any surface dirt is knocked off or wiped away. Once you are certain all the grime that will come off gently has come off, lightly rinse the outside of the shoe in the sink, but not so much or so long that the leather actually absorbs the water. Time enough for that when you're out sailing! Wipe the shoe down with a rag and let dry.

Once the shoe is dry, you're going to want to get a leather cleaner and conditioner. You can buy them separately or together. Mink oil is often recommended as a separate conditioner. I actually use Meguiar's Gold Class Rich Leather Cleaner and Conditioner, which I originally used for the seats in the car I had before I moved to Japan, but found that it works well on cleaning and restoring any type of leather, including shoes. If you're using separate cleaner and conditioner, use the cleaner first and follow all directions. Usually it's as simple as spraying onto the shoe, letting it sit for a minute or so, then wiping the shoe down. Conditioner is then rubbed in much like shoe polish. For combined, you just rub it in much like shoe polish. You will be amazed how quickly your rag turns black because it pulls out all the dirt that has seeped into the leather. The shoe will also look cleaner and brighter with a natural shine, but not a faux plasticy or oily shine, because the conditioner is in the leather not on top of the leather. Work it in until you're satisfied. The leather will also be noticeably softer and more supple, and will show that it has aged well even while you maintain a regimen of caring for it. For lighter colored leather or brightly colored leather, I would also suggest using a water-proofer spray, which will help protect colors that don't take as well to the mottled aged look that the darker colors, especially brown, look best with. Regardless, once you establish a pattern, do it before every single sailing session, and if you're one of those people who don't sail, but still wear boat shoes, try to establish a regimen for it anyhow.

To The Boathouse...!

You say your boat shoes are prepped? Great, help me get this thing out to the dock, daylight's a'wastin'...

This is Awesome, That is All

2011-08-08T18:15:00.000-05:00

Yes, that's Steve Urkel, being all 1950s preppy and awesome.

Is it Fall? Nope, Just a Drought.

2011-08-08T15:07:00.001-05:00

Vintage polo shirt by Polo Ralph Lauren, shorts by US Polo Assn, shoes by Sperry Top-siders, watch by Brooks Brothers, band by American Eagle Outfitters.

Notable: United Nations Naval Service (UNNS) ball cap. University of Texas school ring.

Texas Essential: Tyler's T-Shirt

2011-08-07T17:22:00.000-05:00

There's a joke in Austin, Texas. When you join a sorority or fraternity, not only do you get membership documents and a pin, you're also issued a t-shirt from Tyler's as if it were a uniform. And in a way, it is. If you take time to stroll around on the University of Texas campus, do some shopping on the drag (Guadalupe Street), or attend a fraternity party, you will see a rainbow of Tyler's shirts in many different colors. Primaries, secondaries, neons, pastels... All with the Tyler's logo emblazoned on the chest, the back, and right sleeve.

Although there has been great decrying over the trend of brands like Aeropastle, Abercrombie & Fitch/Hollister, and American Eagle Outfitters appropriating aspects of traditional Americana while plastering their brand names all over the designs, Tyler's was until recently a sign of local pride. It demonstrated that you were proud of being an Austinite (even if it was only during the school year) and that you were interested in a local business that has been a landmark for thousands of Longhorns over the years. I say recently because a new location has recently been opened in Dallas, and I am beginning to see them at Dallas area universities like the University of North Texas and Texas Woman's University, again among mostly the Greek set.

The shirts are of generally high quality, and the Tyler's screen printing cracks in just the right way over the years to get a very well worn in look even while the material and construction both stay hefty. I've worn my oldest shirt swimming, sailing, jogging, and just around Austin. After eight years, it does need a bit of stitching in the underarm area, but nothing I can't handle.

Here's my newest Tyler's shirt, coupled with a pair of patched madras shorts from Company 81, my Brooks Brothers watch and band, and my signed "game day" UT ballcap. And by new, I mean I bought the shirt three years ago. I haven't even broken it in yet!

Not in Texas, you say, but want to represent your Austin pride elsewhere (maybe in the Northeast *hint* *hint*)? Get them from the Tyler's website here.

Increasing Traffic, New Design

2011-08-07T01:54:00.000-05:00

Dear Kyoto Maiko Readers,

You may have noticed that the blog layout has changed quite noticeably since the last time you visited. It seemed about time to do so. In the last few weeks, there has been a fairly significant increase in both pageviews and comments. And by significant, I mean the difference between a few page views a day to hundreds of page views in a day. It's been quite extraordinary. Surprising, but genuinely gratifying.

I credit some of this to Independent Fashion Bloggers, which I have been a member of since I turned this blog from a travel log of Korea and Japan into the style blog it is today. As IFB has grown, so too has the audience when posts are chosen for Links a la Mode. Although my take on "owning prep" was featured previously, it did not generate such a response as "The Absence of Ivy" did. I credit some of this, also, to V from Grit & Glamour who has used her mad twitter skills (that's a very technical term, you understand) to share some of my posts with her followers.

However, I do hope that this is an indication that my content is genuinely interesting and entertaining to my readers. Therefore, I have begun to work on three key items: branding, organisation, and diversity. Let's take these in reverse.

I have noticed that I tend to shift from topic to topic with my posts. Sometimes I post pictures of other people, sometimes I write articles, sometimes I post finds or items I wish to buy, and many times I post pictures of myself. Diversity is great, it means that your readers have a lot to look forward to. Unfortunately such diversity can also lead to plenty of dreck without proper organisation. I also had "post litter" that I cleaned up, random thoughts that added nothing, or tickets/links for ranking and aggregating sites... I've scrubbed the decks and thrown the rubbish overboard. For what remains, I direct your attention to the new menu on the right entitled "For Your Consideration..."

I Wear - My "outfit of the day" posts. If you've come to admire my sartorial panache, this is the section for you.

They Wear - If you're looking for Japanese street style or other people's prep aesthetic, this is where I post pictures I've taken of other people.

Essential Wear - This is for items I've recently purchased or are looking to purchase. Should I ever become popular enough that I start receiving requests for reviews, they will fall under this category. A note to would be contacts, please read the IFB Fair Compensation Manifesto linked under my biography.

Travel - This section is for travel photos. Korea, Japan, Taiwan, Guam, Australia, New Mexico... I have a bunch of backlog photos to post, so there will be more in this section in the coming weeks.

Behavior - This category was hard to name, but it's essentially the articles I write on what I think or what I feel people should know. This includes how-to posts (like "Why Outsourcing is Bad For Your Wardrobe"), editorials on controversial topics (like "You Can't Buy Prep, but You Can Own It"), or societal admonishments ("The Absence of Ivy" or my support of Goodwill). It might also include guest posts by other bloggers, or coverage of IFB events... Basically, if it's long and wordy, it falls under this category.

Japan - Stuff about or related to my adopted country. Hell yeah, Japan. I miss you. ;_; Is it October yet? I go back in October briefly to take care of some business...

History - This section will feature either personal history, family history, national history, or style icons. Perhaps some vintage magazine/catalog stuff. Basically, if it happened in the past whether it's pictures of me in school uniforms, pictures of my family, or a blurb on why William Jennings Bryan should have been president a hundred years ago, it goes here.

I've organised my diversity of posting topics primarily because with such a significant increase in readership, I felt that I needed to make the blog better "put together." For this reason, I have begun paying far more attention to the look than I normally would have. I've been steadily increasing the quality of my photography and my graphic artist skills, neither of which (as an English teacher), I am particularly good at. While this is a modified version of a blogger template, I am working on a proprietary site design now. I really do like the way this has come out though. A marked improvement.

I suppose Kyoto Maiko was somewhat whimsical for what has become a "prep" blog, but I like it, it sets me apart. Nothing against "thepreppy" this or "thatprep" that, but it's kind of nice to take a name that means something to me and really turn it into something people stop and remember. One doesn't usually associate "prep" or "ivy style" with Japan, although it really isn't that farfetched. The magazine Free and Easy in Japan is all about the Ivy Style in Japan. In the future I may start writing my posts both in English and Japanese.

Finally, because I know you're wondering, what is the significance behind the Kyoto Maiko crest. Well, the gold leaf is because... well... coats of arms HAVE to have gold leaf.... Okay, but everything else has a purpose. The Rising Sun flag is actually not the Imperial Japanese flag or a battle flag, like many Westerners believe. It is the Japanese Naval Ensign, and it continues to serve that function today for the Japanese Maritime Self Defense Force. Along with the crossed oars, the flag signifies the strong nautical tradition in both Japan and in New England. The second part of the crest is the Kyoto Prefectural Flag. Think of it like the way Texas has the Lone Star Flag. Since I represent Kyoto, it seemed appropriate.

Oh, and that thing on the left side of the header? That's a good luck charm from the Hikawa Shrine in Azabu-Juuban in Tokyo. If you can figure out what is so special about that particular shrine, I may just buy you a drink...

I hope you enjoy the new look and the upcoming content.

Fair winds and following seas.

Brooks Brothers + iPad

2011-08-06T04:28:00.000-05:00

I love the iPad app for BB because I can open the catalogs, snap pictures with the power + home buttons, and use BlogPress to upload here.

I'm loving this collection from Fleece because I usually fit into boys 14-20 depending on brand, item, and cut.

Posted using BlogPress from my iPad. Big shout out to V at Grit & Glamour for giving me the inspiration to play around with this.

Why Outsourcing is Bad For Your Wardrobe

2011-08-05T14:17:00.000-05:00

I've talked quite a bit about how picky I am in regards to goods made in the nation in which they were designed. The reason is quite simply that they last longer. Considerably longer. I have ties made in the USA, England, Scotland, and Italy. I have a watch made in the USA that is far older than I am and still runs pretty well. With each season it becomes harder and harder to walk into a store, even vintage or resale shops, and find items that I can trust will last me years. Some trad/prep/ivy style bloggers seem to be almost fetishist about the "Made in the USA" tag, which I'm not. What I have learned though, is that I can understand how someone can get to that point.

Items made in developed nations (United States, Canada, European states, Japan, Australia, New Zealand, and now South Korea), are really just great quality that lasts. Unfortunately, I've found I've had to compromise more than I want to. I usually try to avoid China, but it is extremely hard unless I want to spend hundreds of dollars per item. Even items closing in on $100 are often now made in China. This makes purchasing new items to finally replace items that have fallen apart (that will last as long) nearly impossible. It's to the point where I've started to rank purchase decisions based on how developing nations decide labor law and how consistently that labor law is applied. Although China isn't the worst offender (Saipan is a particularly atrocious offender that has, in the past, attempted to use their commonwealth status to print "Made in the USA" on products made there), due to its currency manipulation, the price points are especially galling.

When I go through my wardrobe, and take a really close look at it, I see these nations: Dominican Republic, Philippines, Hong Kong (actually no longer a British protectorate and part of China, but in name only, there is actually some labor protection here), Vietnam, Sri Lanka, Indonesia, and Malaysia. Most of my madras is made in India, which is as it should be for the material, but I'm always curious of what the labor conditions actually are. India is way higher on my list than China, obviously. Unfortunately, my shoes are about half China and half developed nation (my most expensive shoes being my $400 Bruno Magli's which were handcrafted in Italy, though I paid a mere $75 for them). Even my "good" Bass Weejuns were made in El Salvador (the newest ones are made in China, and made of really crappy "particle leather" soles that flake off, and eventually need to be resoled by a professional shoe cobbler).

It's no real wonder that my oldest wardrobe staples are those made in developed nations. They last years or decades. Which is good, because I find that they are also my go to items, day after day, month after month, and year after year. Those made elsewhere last a few seasons if that, and then they need to be replaced. When items need to be replaced that soon, they actually cost more over time. If you add up all the time and money spent on on replacing items that you buy from developing nations, you begin to see why outsourcing is bad for your wardrobe. You may think you're getting a good deal, but if you're the type of person to wear certain staples over and over again (as most in the trad/prep/ivy arena are), then you will actually end up paying substantially more in the long run.

If you are going to buy new or used merchandise, it is important to consider both label and quality of construction. Labels are actually a bit of a short cut. We (rightfully) associate these developing nations with poor quality, but not because of any inherent lack of skill or talent on behalf of the citizens of those countries. I sometimes encounter those with such Eurocentric views that they believe that anything made in America, Europe, or commonwealth countries is better to due to the inherently better craftsmanship of the people of these nation states. This is at best a type of extreme nationalism (or civilisationism), and at worst, thinly veiled racism. The problem is that corporations have, in the drive for higher profits and lower overhead, moved to developing nations and chosen to exploit workforces that have very little protection from their governments, and a distinct lack of labor union movements. While I do not wish to get into a political argument about unions (as they apply here in the United States), most economic scholars, even conservative ones, agree that at least initially quality improves inside of unionised shops because quality control improves as workers gain pride in what they do.

When I shop, I examine the weave of the material and the stitching. I run my hands through the material and see how it feels. Even broadcloth or madras should have a certain amount of heft to it. Do not tug so hard that you damage the material and have to buy the item anyway, but pull gently to see how the material reacts. If it doesn't seem to jump back into place, it's probably not worth your time. Likewise, when searching for heavier material like tweeds or oxford cloth, they should feel hefty but not stiff like cardboard. There should be a thickness that is also supple and flexible. I've been pretty displeased lately with IZOD shirts because although they've maintained their heft in their Varsity Oxford lines, they also feel like cardboard, even after a few washes. The "springiness" of material should also apply to polo shirts, mesh or interlock. If they don't immediately show bounce in the material (which will resist stretching, especially if you must hang instead of fold your polo shirts), I skip right over them.

Check stitching and make sure that buttons are securely sewn and there is a significant amount of thread to keep buttons on. Check the stitching on joints and make sure patterns look well developed and not haphazard. Always watch for "Irish Pennents" a derogatory term taught to me in the Navy referring to loose threads at the ends (or worse, in the middle) of stitches. If you have more than one or two of these on a garment, they indicate very loose standards on the stitching and the construction of the item might not stand up to normal wear, and most definitely won't stand up to years of wear. Check zippers several times, and make sure that they are neither too quick to zip (which is too loose) nor too slow (indicates the zippers may not catch well enough and you may eventually snag and break them). Almost all zippers are made by YKK. If the one you're looking at isn't, tread carefully. On chinos/khakis, pay attention to how belt loops are finished, how hemming is done, and if the pockets are well constructed. If they lack a coin pocket, pay them more attention, because coin pockets are one of the first things to go when a manufacturer has decided to cut costs.

With it becoming more and more difficult to find reasonably priced items made in developed countries, this process is useful for eliminating the worst offenders, and as developing countries (like India) become more modernised and labor rules catch up with Western nations, these tips should help you decide where to spend your money. Yet, I still recommend that you consider specialty makers that produce items in the United States and Great Britain. They may cost more, but they will last much longer, and are worthy of your investment.

LINKS À LA MODE: AUGUST 4TH

2011-08-04T15:38:00.000-05:00

No matter how many trends sweep through the fashion world, the timeless looks of fashion's most beloved icons are always in style. This week's Links a la mode gives a nod to iconic visionaries and brands--both old, new and on the rise. Can you think of anyone else you'd rather hang out with... or have in your Google+ circle?

LINKS À LA MODE: AUGUST 4TH

★ A Prettier Place: Jean Paul Gaultier • Retrospective
★ An Old Story: The 90's Are All That
★ Best of Bklyn: Giving Back Fashionably
★ Castle Fashion: Shoe profile for All Saints Heels
★ Cosmolawlitan: The Kate Effect? Fashion Icons and Their Influence on Consumer Behavior
★ DignityZine: Iconoclass: Audrey Hepburn in Roman Holiday. Get the modern day look for under $100!
★ Dress Code: High Fashion: Inspiring fashion since over 50 years: Alfred Hitchcock`s blondes
★ Dressful: It's not WHAT you wear, it's HOW you wear it
★ Fashables: So... I think She's a Model
★ Fashion is Evolution: This new installment of my favorite feature (Fictional Fashion Icon) is all about Margot Tenenbaum.
★ Fashioned by Love: Fashion legend: Jeanne Lanvin
★ Fumiko Kawa: [inspiration] Alexander Wang F/W 2011 shoe
★ Heather Fonseca: Balenciaga and Spain
★ Her Majestys Glam: How to: Make-Up Like Marilyn
★ IFB: Google+ for Fashion Bloggers
★ Kyoto Maiko: The Absence of Ivy
★ Lady In Lycra: Everybody Talks About My Blog. A tribute to my new fave t-shirt
★ Simplyfrabulous: Shoes and art, when a heel become a "chef d'oeuvre"
★ Sometimes Almost Always: LA DJ Fashion
★ Style Ceviche: The beautiful Sasha Pivovarova

Shop Style at Shopbop: Lyn Devon, Olcay Gulsen, Zac Posen, DKNY, Velvet, MK Totem, Adam Lippes, Oliver Theyskens, & Alexander McQueen.

Framed...Frisco, TX

2011-08-03T18:29:00.001-05:00

OCBD by Polo Ralph Lauren, shorts by Rugby Ralph Lauren, shoes by Sperry Topsiders, web belt by Rosso Bianco, watch by Brooks Brothers, band by American Eagle Outfitters.

The Absence of Ivy: Style Failings of the American Student

2011-07-30T14:54:00.001-05:00

The photo above is from my mother's 1968 yearbook.

Button down shirts and chinos, well fitted suits, crew neck sweaters, pencil and pleated skirts, cardigans, horn tipped glasses, and the all important penny loafers on both sexes. Some of the women (although none can be seen here) would have been in slacks, and it would have looked polished and put together. Nowadays we associate these looks with the "prep" trend, but we should really be considering it more in the sense of "Ivy" style. I've explored what I think the value is in "prep," but I think it's necessary to explain why the absence of "Ivy" in specific and the absence of style appropriateness in general is actually having a negative impact on students that becomes manifest after graduation and upon entrance into the professional working world. Young men and women scramble to build a work wardrobe they don't have and don't know how to wear.

This photo represents the end of an era. The 1970s would find the hippie aesthetic take over campuses, and although hair would vary with year and generation, style choices would become less and less formal, until today, I often feel overdressed in my courses, where even some of the graduate students (let alone the undergraduates) show up in a uniform of t-shirt, shorts, and flip flops (or worse, camisole, pajama bottoms, and slippers). Compare the above photo to a university library today. I'm all for comfortable study attire but...

What the hell happened?

Unfortunately, we started thinking of schools first as places primarily of social change, but not of places with a work ethic. Educational institutions should be places of social change, but they should still be primarily places of learning, and places where hard work and professionalism are rewarded. We've stopped treating educational institutions as a work environment. This is problematic, and our undergraduate and graduate sense of "style" (read: inappropriate) is a microcosm that is useful for exploring the issue of why professionalism seems to be lacking in our classrooms.

Now, this raises the question, have we become less professional because we stopped dressing professionally, and developed a different outlook on the campus versus the outlook we have towards the office that we do dress up for? Or was it that we stopped viewing the educational institution as a place where professionalism was required and therefore began to show that viewpoint by no longer dressing professionally? It's probably a chicken and the egg sort of question, and the answer is somewhere in the middle, and the two probably feed on each other and are therefore self-reinforcing. The only way to break the cycle is dress for school the way you would dress for work in an office. Dress like how you imagine you would have to dress for your dream job; don't dress as if you simply need the bare minimum to "wait" school "out."

Anyone who reads fashion or style blogs, anyone who cares about their appearance, and pretty much most people who've ever had to do something "professional" (including high school and college students) understands that a well put together outfit can literally change your feelings and perceptions. We don't just look our best to impress our interviewers, guests, or authority figures, we also look our best because it makes us feel our best, and it makes us react differently when we do. There is a reason why most speech/interview coaches advise you to wear professional attire even when doing a phone interview. The person on the other end wouldn't know if you were in a robe and Donald Duck slippers, but you will, and your speech behavior will actually mimic your level of dress appropriateness.

This is why it is so important for there to be informal "dress codes" for educational institutions, at least by the junior high school level. While I support formal dress codes as well (but only if they are gender neutral, any item in the dress code should be able be worn by students, which means, yes, if boys want to wear skirts, as long as they do it seriously and adhere to the rules, they should be able to. In most cases young women are already allowed to wear slacks), I recognise that professional style does have a range that allows for variance. This means that we should have "dress codes" that emphasise key pieces that are generally and widely recognised as "work-appropriate" and we should strive to explain to students the proper places in which such attire is worn. This should be a segment within the "life skills" courses many high schools and junior high schools are now teaching (which have replaced the heavily gendered, if not outright sexist, "home economics" courses of the past).

By the time students get to the university level, they should be treating each course (even 8:00 am courses) as "business meetings." While it is true that universities, especially in the United States, are getting more and more expensive, and there is a trend to treat students as "customers," these are excuses often used as ideas to promulgate a view that presents professors not as "meeting leaders" but as "servants," who are to educational institutions what cashiers are to a department store; there for the sole purpose of delivering the "product" to the students who have "paid" for it. The problem is, despite the fact that tuition costs are indeed payment, they are payment for opportunity, but not for outcome. The "pay" a student receives for doing the work is twofold- the knowledge attained, and the signifier of the knowledge attained (grades awarded or degrees conferred). In this way, the classroom has been, and should be considered still, a work environment where the student does the work, and is paid accordingly. It should be seen as a training ground for eventual career behavior.

Which brings us back to the need to reestablish appropriate style choices among students, and why the "Ivy" style is useful as a benchmark. The elements of Ivy specifically are not as relevant here as the general idea of dressing comfortably yet in pieces that are understood to be "professional." There are a couple of "rebel" actions you can get away with, and that is where your "I'm a student, this is a training environment!" nonchalance can be touted.

Honestly, all it really takes for men (or for women!) to look really put together is a couple of staples:

Here's a Brooks Brothers Oxford Cloth Button Down (OCBD) in standard collegiate stripe (white and blue). You really can get away with only a few colors. If you only have three colors, it should be white, blue, and the blue collegiate stripe. Others I have show cased on this blog are pink (and pink/white collegiate), green (and green/white collegiate), and probably the next color to round out a simple collection would be a yellow. Both F.E. Castleberry and I have spoken about the quality of American Living's button downs, I am really happy with the quality, the fit, and the price point of their OCBDs. You don't need to break the bank. Watch for deals and you can walk away with these shirts for around $15 each. Treat them well, and they'll last for years.

Then throw on some simple chinos/khakis, like this pair from Deco. Nothing fancy. No pleats (maybe a coin pocket or a pair with a back flap pocket if you're feeling like a little flare). Place a nice grosgrain, ribbon, or brown leather belt on (here I have a grosgrain belt from US Polo Assn). Not too tight, make it relaxed enough so your chinos/khakis fit across the hips comfortably (if your chinos/khakis would fall off without a belt, they're too big. If you can't breath, they're too tight) without bunching somewhere.

Dress it up by throwing on a pair of brown loafers or oxfords, here I am wearing Bass Weejuns. Make it rebellious by not putting on socks. Make it lighter by using white bucks, still without socks. Dress it down by putting on brown Sperry's. Make it fun by putting on colored Sperry's.

Ladies may choose to use heels or ballet flats, but be conservative. Nothing like a lady in some serious masculine shoes!

Add a navy blue blazer (not so good right now for outside temperatures, but useful to have when the air conditioning in buildings is so high that you'd freeze without it) and you will be better dressed than anyone else in your class. You may well be better dressed than the professor!

Classic LIFE photo of a young lady repping the Brooks Brothers OCBD. I wanted to go with something a bit more modern as well, but I simply wasn't able to find pictures of the ladies without 1) using really crappy model shots from seller websites or 2) taking proprietary pictures from other bloggers. I refuse to do either. Maybe I'll try to take some pictures of some ladies out on campus.

Most of you already know this stuff, and those of you who are still in an educational institution probably don't benefit much from this post. The idea is to share it with others and rebuild an academic and professional style that treats schools like work environments. Let your peers know that taking even the few minutes to throw on something as simple as the above shows respect for their work as professionals-in-training, their professors as professionals, and will serve to help them bridge the transition from youth to working adulthood, and with that change in outlook, perhaps our educational institutions will see a rise in quality of student, quality of behavior, and quality of perception.

Lazy Saturday in the South

2011-07-30T14:19:00.000-05:00

I just need a mint julep...

Coat by JF, shirt by Polo Ralph Lauren, bowtie by Circa 77, pocketsquare is vintage 1980s Kimagure Orange Road (from Japan), shorts from Uniqlo, shoes by Sperry Topsiders.

Notable: whale belt from Betsy and Millie. Yes, I know the peaked lapel is not a normal decision, but in this case I think it works.

Links à la Mode: July 28th

2011-07-29T19:51:00.000-05:00

Whether we realize it or not, we are all influenced by something, whether it be celebrities, trends or designs of the past. This week’s links a la mode celebrates influencers and the voices we create from our inspiration. As fashion bloggers, we have each other to look for when we are feeling uninspired and this community is something we should never take for granted!

Links à la Mode: July 28th

1972projects: WASTED

a tout le monde: Simple & to the Point!

Beyond Fabric: The Lost Art of Keeping it Simple

Bespoke Baroque: The Challenge to Wear Less Black (and Grey and Beige)

Bonnie Vie: Body Con(scious)

Britt + Whit: Wall Art

Chanel and Something Else: The Naked Back

Dress With Courage: How do you define blogging success?

Fashables: Forever 21 Dresses

FASHSTASH: Redefining the Gender Boundaries in Fashion

I Got Style and I’m Fab: A Reflection on Small-Town Fashion

IFB: What Makes a Blogger Influential?

Interrobangs Anonymous: Revolution Through Sweaty Apathy

Kings Rule Together: A Kings Response: GQ 40 Worst-Dress Cities in America

Lifestyles of the Thrifty and Shameless: Everybody, Everywear (again)

Panache Offblast: Bring Out Your Inner Geek-Chic!

Pretty Innovative: Geeked Out Over eCommerce

Style Island: I’ll be on your side forever more..that’s what trends are for

Styling You: 10 Ways to Dress for French Champagne on an Aussie Beer Budget

The Loudmouth Lifestyle: Competing, Comparing Confessing

Out of Season is in the Bank

2011-07-29T19:06:00.000-05:00

While I haven't gotten to wear these much yet (hottest summer on record, yay 108F!), I did get some cool deals on what I'll be wearing come fall/winter.

First up is the prep membership card, the LL Bean Norwegian Birds-eye Sweater. This is the awesome 1980s version. It has a bit of pilling I am slowly cleaning up, but it is still has so much wear in it. I've already worn it twice inside of malls/theatres where the air conditioning was so blaring I actually needed it!

I picked up these two Brooks Brothers flannel herringbone button down shirts which I intend to use for layering over when the weather starts to get really cold. Both for $9, and if they're not brand new, they are nearly so. They look, feel, and smell like unworn merchandise.

I'd Rather Be Sailing...Ray Roberts Lake, TX

2011-06-07T16:42:00.000-05:00

Madras Shirt by American Living, Belt by J. CREW, Shorts by Uniqlo, Watch by Kelton, Band by American Eagle Outfitters, Shoes by Sperry Top-Siders.

School Uniforms - 80s/90s

2011-06-06T17:56:00.001-05:00

Trellis...Denton, TX

2011-06-06T13:50:00.001-05:00

Green/White College Striped OCBD from Polo Ralph Lauren, Bow Tie by J. PRESS, Shorts by US Polo Assn, Watch by Kelton, Band by American Eagle Outfitters, University of Texas school ring, Madras Belt by Comme ca Ism, shoes by Bruno Magli.

John Kerry: Then and Now

2011-06-05T23:05:00.001-05:00

Sources: Kerry Family, Kennedy Library, MSNBC, Kerry for Senate. The signed tie is mine, from Harold's.

In The Office...Dallas, TX

2011-06-05T12:47:00.000-05:00

OCBD by Polo Ralph Lauren, Tie made in England for the Household Cavalry (Do not wear in Britain!), Khakis by Deco, Belt by Uniqlo, Go To Hell shoes by Sperry Top-siders, Watch by Kelton, Band by American Eagle Outfitters.

My Dad's Watch and New Bands

2011-06-04T17:52:00.000-05:00

It's a Kelton. No idea what year, it could well be forty or fifty years old. The earliest Keltons were made in the 1920s, and the latest ones were made in the 1960s, as far as I know. For the longest time I thought it didn't work, but it works now. It has a great vintage look and feel that I really, really like. Although my research tells me it is a "cheap watch" from the time period, it clearly is way better than the crap made now a days.

I also picked up these bands and (and the one above) at American Eagle Outfitters. I almost never shop there. And I don't shop there because everything is made in China and of weak construction. These bands were made in China, but they were also only $2 each. Given how badly the Chinese devalue their currency, and how little they pay their workers, that's about as much as they're worth. Not quite as snappy my Brooks Brothers, but given the price, I am not complaining.

Gant Rugger - Pre-Fall 2011

2011-06-04T14:45:00.000-05:00

I'm not even THINKING about Fall yet, but I think this is a hilarious advertisement from Gant Rugger. I own a vintage GANT madras shirt, and I really love it, so I found these "rules" amusing. Just remember. Every rule is meant to be broken.

Not Even Slightly Congenial...Dallas, TX

2011-06-04T12:30:00.001-05:00

Seersucker Button Down Shirt by Polo Ralph Lauren, Canary Yellow shorts by US Polo Assn, Watch and Band by Brooks Brothers, Ribbon Belt by Uniqlo, shoes by Bass Weejuns.

"American Living" brand is Pure Pony, Great Value

2011-06-04T11:14:00.001-05:00

More than two years ago, Ralph Lauren and JC Penney's combined what they do best in order to create line of classic American apparel. F.E. Castleberry has already done a review of these shirts, but since I was in Japan at the time, there was no way to have access to this line. We only just got a Rugby by Ralph Lauren in Tokyo not too long ago. We get plenty of Polo Ralph Lauren, even in the vintage and resale shops, so my price points were never much of an issue. If I felt like splurging, I headed to Brooks Brothers or J. PRESS, both fairly easy to find in Japan.

Here's a shirt a picked up yesterday for $14:

It's precisely how I prefer my dress shirts; no pockets. Unless a shirt is actually Polo Ralph Lauren, I'm not a huge fan of logos either. Usually the American Living shirts have both a pocket and an eagle/flag logo. I was happy to find a number of their shirts that did not have either, like the madras shirt above. And I have to say I spent a good hour just walking around both the boys section (I'm really small, so I often can wear L or XL in boys, the shirt above is an XL boys) and the Men's section feeling the material, studying the construction, and looking at where the clothes were made. The quality is equivalent, in my opinion, to the other Ralph Lauren brands. I heard rumors in the blogosphere that the quality would go down overtime, but now, almost three years later, I don't see that. If it dipped in 2009 or 2010, and then Ralph/Penney's fixed the issue, I wouldn't know, since I was in Japan. It's certainly good now.

The design elements are precisely what you would expect from any American brand, and when it comes right to it, if the whole Ivy/Trad/Prep/Americana thing is the basis of your wardrobe, you'll find a lot to like about American Living. You'll find great madrases in shirts and shorts, very soft OCBDs in pink, blue, and white. Some great khakis. About the only thing not to like is the fact that "Made in USA" is not a label I found. But it least it was never "Made in China" and the madras was usually "Made in India." Their golf shorts were nice, but were only in the Men's section and the waist sizes were a few inches too large for me. A shame because they had some beautiful go to hell colors like kelly green and fire engine red. I also found a lot of sales items, and if I hadn't had a set budget in mind when I went shopping yesterday, I could have ended up with a significant number of items for the cost of one Polo Ralph Lauren, Brooks Brothers, J. PRESS, or Lacoste shirt. Definitely a brand to keep my eye on, and one to make sure I consider stocking up on before heading back to Japan.

Is there a go to hell shoe?

2011-06-03T19:02:00.000-05:00

Is it these Sperry Top-sider patched madras deck shoes? Picked up at Nordstrom's for 50% off.

I'm thinking of wearing it with otherwise conservative clothing. Khakis, seersucker dress shirt, repp tie, and blazer.

Only one go to hell item per outfit, please...

Links à la Mode: June 2

2011-06-02T22:30:00.000-05:00

Windows Into Our Worlds

Edited by Meghan Donovan of WIT & Whimsy

I've said it before, but one of the reasons I love fashion blogging so much is because it has the power to be very personal and connect you with people whom you may never have met otherwise. This week's Links a La Mode show you just how intimate one's blog can become when you open up your readers to visits to neighborhood boutiques, DIYs done on a rainy Sunday or similar styles perfected by fellow bloggers. Our blogging allows for little windows into our worlds and its often what makes writing and photographing for posts so very worthwhile.

Links à la Mode: June 2nd

1972: McQueen and Menswear

Aesthetic Alterations: Summer Scarves become a Summer Handbag

Aqui: The Boyfriend Style Project

Best of Bklyn: How to Pack for Two Weeks

The Button Owl: How to Identify Eras in Vintage Clothing

Crashing Red: Styling a Classic Louis Vuitton

Garbish: Achieving Nicole Richie's Style

Girl Loves Color: A Closer Look at Italian line Braccialini

Grit & Glamour: Lipstick Favorites, Tips and Tricks

The Loud Mouth: Bloggers Do Hair Buns Better

North on Harper: DIY Hair Feathers

Out of Order: Gingham: Past and Present

Soulful Souls: A Look inside Raleigh Denim

Style Delights: The Best of Rain Boot Styles

Stay in the Lines: Achieving the Perfect Summer Glow

The Stylish Butterfly: Knits in the Middle of Summer

Style Notebook: Trenspotting: Neon Bags

Susu Paris Chic: Paris Museum Highlights the Art of Draping

Vanity Press: Previews Thoughts on the CFDA Awards

WIT & Whimsy: Hamptons Summer Style

SPONSOR:

Cami Tops at Shopbop: Free People, Tucker tops, Alexander Wang tees, Lanston tees, Blue life, Rory Beca, Rachel Pally tops, Georgie clothing, Dallin Chase, Parker tops, Blue Moon.

Mad for Madras

2011-05-31T22:44:00.001-05:00

I found these patched madras shorts for $10 each. Both are 100% cotton, made in India, and seem pretty authentic to the touch. Not sure how to test if they'll bleed, they might have bled enough already. The shorts on the left are Rugby by Ralph Lauren, which Fred E. Castleberry over at Unabashedly Prep has often mentioned. On the right is a pair from a label called Company 81. Their website leaves much to be desired, but the shorts seem pretty solid.

If you just can't get enough madras, Christian over at Ivy Style has a nice post on how madras gets made here.

Garden Party...Dallas, Texas

2011-05-31T12:33:00.000-05:00

Memorial Day is over, and the summer has begun!

Shirt by Polo Ralph Lauren, Shorts by Uniqlo, Shoes by Sperry Topsiders, Watch and Band by Brooks Brothers

Pictures of the Past II

2011-02-17T13:52:00.001-06:00

Links à la Mode: February 17th, 2011

2011-02-17T13:25:00.000-06:00

Fashion Week's Inspirations

Edited by Marie Denee of The Curvy Fashionista

During the midst of New York Fashion Week, fashion took another direction. Beyond the beauty of an artist’s creation, fashion bloggers take their inspirations to raise questions, reflect, challenge the status quo, create and fashion pieces of their own, and analyze the trends in digital and social media- nevertheless, fashion inspired. With this inspiration comes an eclectic look into this week’s Links a la mode.

Links à la Mode: February 17th, 2011

Alterations Needed: Getting a dress altered - before, after, and the thought process in between.

Beyond Fabric: Embracing a more stylish ride

Brunette Blogging: Blog Seasons - How different seasons have an impact on your blog

College Girl: Liberty London Girl spares her time to answer some in depth questions about her blogging experiences and gives amateur bloggers some exceptional advice in the process...

Dressing With Courage: Valentine's Day lingerie: Take back the sexy

Fashion Writes: Let's Get Digital. Digital. Women are small in numbers in the always-enhancing and ever-evolving tech side of the fashion industry, but we as fashion bloggers are going to begin skewing the curves.

Independent Fashion Bloggers: A blogger's moment with Anna Wintour at Milk Studios

Katrya-Kyla: "Print vs Video: The Industry's New Plan of Attack"

Khola's Kloset: Looking Back: The models and images that made fashion special

Lariza da Blog: my struggle with the vanity of fashion blogging:

Metallic Kiwi: Top black models emerging within the industry.

Most Serene Rabbit: Is there really such thing as ethical leather? Why is there a double standard when it comes to ethics In the fur and leather industries?

Previously Owned: BEHIND THE GLITZ- Q&A with designer Carolina Rodriguez about her food/fashion/music inspiration

Same Sensibility: Rihanna just ruined your Valentine's

Scrap and Run: Why I remix

Seamstress Stories: High heels yay, headscarf nay? Double standards in the symbolic value assigned to female clothing.

Style by Santina: My "Happy" Weight: When the Body and Brain Disagree

The Button Owl: Why your creative space identifies the real you just as much as your outer image.

The Coveted:Running into Anna Dello Russo at NYFW

The Curvy Fashionista: “DIY Diva” inspiration with Be Vain or DIY Trying

The Demoiselles: Crystal Renn on body image and pressure from the media.

SPONSOR:
Shopbop @ NYFW: Rag & Bone, Parker, Derek Lam, Rachel Pally, 3.1 Phillip Lim, CKU, Pencey, James Perse, Madewell